Band Heel Sock

This is a simple "plain vanilla" sock pattern. Its designed specifically for self-patterning yarns such as Regia and Opal.

Because there is no gusset shaping, there is little pattern disruption with the self-patterning yarns. The heel uses an interesting combination of construction techniques including a typical flap construction and short row decreases. No finicky short row wrap and turns! This band heel technique is adapted from Nancy Bush's Folk Socks.

Materials Needed

  • 100 grams of your favorite sock weight yarn. Regia Jacquard Color #5295 used in sample sock.
  • US size 0 needles or size needed for gauge. The pattern is written for a set of 5 double pointed needles. If you have a set of 4 dpns or prefer the 2 circ method, by all means work the pattern in a manner that suites you.
  • Stitch marker
  • Needle for grafting and weaving in ends

    • Gauge - use a gauge that will fit the wearer comfortably.
    8 stitches per inch. Finished sock will be 9" in circumfrence.
    8.5 stitches per inch. Finished size will be 8.5" in circumfrence.
    9 stitches per inch. Finished size will be 8" in circumfrence.

    Common knitting abbreviations used in pattern:
    K - knit
    K2tog - Knit two together
    P - purl
    P2tog - purl two together
    sl1 - slip one stitch
    SSK - slip, slip, knit 2 together

    Cast On - 72 stitches using your favorite cast on technique. Divide stitches evenly among four needles (18 stitches on each needle). Join, being careful not to twist. If needed, place marker to signal where each new round begins.

    Cuff - Work K2, P1 ribbing for 2" or desired length.

    Leg - Knit in rounds until the sock leg reaches the desired length. The sample sock was knit to 7".

    Band Heel - The heel is worked back and forth over 36 stitches (18 from needle 1 and 18 from needle 2). The remaining 36 stitches on needles 3 and 4 will remain unworked for now.

    NOTE: You can choose to keep your heel stitches on two needles or you can transfer them onto one needle. Do which ever is easiest for you.

    Row 1: Slip 1, K to end.
    Row 2: Slip 1, P to end.
    Repeat Rows 1 and 2 nine more times for a total of 20 rows.
    Continue working heel
    Row 1: Slip 1, K 12, K2tog, K6, SSK, K13.
    Row 2, 4, 6 and 8: Slip 1, purl to end.
    Row 3: Slip 1, K 11, K2tog, K6, SSK, K12.
    Row 5: Slip 1, K 10, K2tog, K6, SSK, K11.
    Row 7: Slip 1, K 9, K2tog, K6, SSK, K10.
    You should now have 28 stitches remaining on the heel flap. Now its time to add some short row decreasing. Don't panic - remember I said there are no fiddly wrap and turns! The decreases will take care of any space or holes created by the short rows.
    Row 1: Slip 1, K16, SSK. Turn leaving remaining stitches unworked.
    Row 2: Slip 1, P6, P2tog, turn leaving remaining stitches unworked.
    Row 3: Slip 1, K6, SSK, turn leaving remaining stitches unworked.
    Repeat Row 2 and 3 until there are only 8 stiches remaining. Finish having worked a purl row.

    Prepare to work foot - You are now done working the heel. Its now time to redistribute stitches in preparation for knitting the foot. We will also be changing the location of the stitch marker to mark a new beginning point between rounds.

    Knit the 8 heel stitches. Pick up and knit 14 stitches along the first side of the heel flap. For the moment, you should now have 22 stitches on needle 1.

    Knit across needle 2 (18 stitches).

    Knit across needle 3 (18 stitches).

    Pick up and knit 14 stitches, placing them on needle 4. Knit 4 stitches from needle 1 onto needle 4. You should now have 18 stitches on each of the 4 needles.

    Move your stitch marker to mark the needle 1 where all rounds will now begin.

    You have just done the most complicated part of the pattern for me to explain =)

    Foot - Knit each round until your sock measures about 2" less then the desired length. If you try your sock on at this point, your sock should fit to the base of your littlest toe. Its now time to begin the toe shaping.

    Toe
    Round 1:

    Needle 1: K to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.
    Needle 2: K1, SSK, Knit to end
    Needle 3: K to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1.
    Needle 4: K1, SSK, Knit to end
    Round 2: Knit across all needles.

    Repeat Round 1 and 2 until you have 4 or 5 stitches remaining on each needle.

    Closing the toe - Its time to make a choice.
    You can cut your yarn leaving a 8 - 10 inch tail. Using a darning needle, draw the yarn end through the remaining stitches and pull snug. Weave in all ends.

    OR you can close the toe by grafting using the Kitchner stitch Prepare to graft by knitting the remaining stitches on needle #1 onto needle #4. Transfer the stitches from needles 2 and 3 onto one needle. Cut an 18" tail for grafting the ends together. Thread the cut end through a darning needle.

    Hold the 2 needles parallel, with the yarn tail coming off the back needle. You will be working from right to left.

    Use the darning needle to bring the yarn through the stitches. First make two preporatory moves.

  • On the front needle, bring yarn through the first stitch as if to purl. Leave the stitch on the needle.
  • On the back needle: bring yarn through the first stitch as if to knit. Leave the stitch on the needle.

    • Now its time to continue with the Kitchner stitch
  • On the front needle, bring the yarn through the first stitch as if to knit, slip off needle. Bring the yarn through the next stitch as if to purl. Leave on the needle.

  • On the back needle, bring the yarn throught the first stitch as if to purl, slip off needle. Bring the yarn through the next stitch as if to knit. Leave on the needle.
    • Repeat steps above alternating between front and back needle until all stitches are worked. Weave all ends.

    Don't forget to make a second sock! =)

    All material on this page is
    copyrighted by Nannette Huber.
    If you encounter a mistake in the pattern
    or need something clarified, please email.
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