GL1200 Ltd. and SEI Repair -- Basic Troubleshooting WITH THE EXCEPTION OF CHECKING OUT THE FUEL PUMP AND THE FUEL SYSTEM, FOR THE REST OF THIS GUIDE, YOU WILL HAVE TO HAVE THE SIDE COVERS OFF, THE SEAT REMOVED, AND THE TOP POD REMOVED. The seat is held down by the two bolts that are under the sides and also control adjustment of the seat. Remove these and remove the seat by pulling it back from the front of the bike and pulling it off. Remove the Top Pod by removing the two bolts at the back edge of the pod, then pulling the two rubber inserts that are at the front inside edge of the Fairing. Remove the two bolts that are exposed. Open up the Travel Computer Lid, and remove the two connectors that go the travel computer, the plug connectors, and any others that you need to. Finally CAREFULLY remove the Top Pod by pulling it back and up. You will probably have to spread it slightly at the front as you do this. Place all the pieces that you have removed in its own pile for reassembly later and REMEMBER what screw, nut, bolt and what have you goes where, because at the end of this, I am only going to say put it back together. AT THIS POINT, IF YOUR ENGINE DOES NOT START, THE THINGS THAT YOU NEED TO CHECK ARE: * BATTERY Charged and ALL battery cables properly installed tightened, and not corroded. * Main FUSES (Links) installed and not burned out. * The "KILL" switch is made properly * The "TILT" switch is functioning properly * The "MAIN" relay (Relay #4) is good and activated * The "FUEL PUMP" relay (Relay #5) is good and activated * The ECU connector is firmly made to the ECU * All connectors firmly made and not corroded or shorted. Checking/correcting the items in the above list, will/should solve most of the problems that occur with the LTD/SEI. We have already gone over the battery connections in a previous paragraph, so I'll just mention that you should know that they are good from this point. Do the LED's Blink and does the Fuel Pump run for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch on. If NOT then lets start by checking all the fuses. Please refer to the Fuse and Relay Diagram. BOTH the MAIN and ALL THE SECONDARY fuses in the fuse box. If all of these are OK, then the next ITEMS to check are: THE 12 VOLTS SOURCE FROM THE KILL SWITCH. THE 12 VOLT SOURCE FROM THE TILT SENSOR. QUICK CHECK of the TILT Sensor and KILL Switch. Place you finger on the top of Relay #4, and with the Key ON, turn the KILL switch OFF and ON a couple of times. If the relay operates,(clicks) then your Kill Switch and Tilt Sensor are probably OK. If the relay does NOT operate then: QUICK CHECK of RELAY #4. There is at least one other relay in the relay box that is the same as the #4 relay. Swap them, and try the above check again. If #4 relay works, you have a bad relay. REPLACE IT. REPLACE THE BAD RELAY NOW, SOME OF THE OTHER CHECKS RELY ON BOTH RELAYS BEING IN GOOD OPERATING CONDITION. With the top pod removed and refering to this diagram, find the Fuel Pump Shut off Sensor (TILT SWITCH). On the bottom of this sensor are three wires (sleeved). Follow the wire group back and locate the connector. After you find the connector, pull it apart, and with the KEY ON, and the KILL SWITCH MADE, get out the VOLT METER and see if you have on the ENGINE Side of the connector, 12 VOLTS from the BLACK WIRE/WHITE STRIPE to Ground. If you DO, then the KILL Switch is OK. Tilt Sensor Check THE Tilt Sensor provides continuity between the RED/WHITE wire and the GREEN wire. This continuity is the grounding circuit for Relay #4. Use a jumper wire between the RED/WHITE wire and the GREEN wire. If the relay operates, then the TILT Sensor is PROBABLY BAD, but continue checking to be sure. *** PUT THE CONNECTOR BACK TOGETHER *** Check for Voltage between the RED/WHITE wire to ground. If you DO, but relay #4 is not working, Then either: The other 30 amp Main Fuse Link is Bad, Fuse #9 is bad or, The WIRE from the Fuse Link to Fuse #9, or the wire from fuse #9 to the Relay is BAD. Use your volt meter to check each of these out. Replace any bad wires. If you DON'T, then you probably have either a bad Relay #4 Coil - a bad Kill Switch - a bad Ignition Switch - a bad Tilt Sensor #4 Fuse bad, or any of the connecting wiring between these places bad. Kill Switch Check Trace the wiring coming from the right hand grip back down and find the BLACK/LHT-GREEN and BLACK/WHITE STRIPE connector Take the connector apart. Check for 12 Volts on the BLACK/LHT-GREEN wire to ground IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE 12 VOLTS, Then you have a bad IGNITION SWITCH or a bad connection from the ignition switch to the kill switch. IF YOU DO HAVE THE 12 VOLTS,then make up a small jumper wire, and jump the connector on the engine side. Relay #4 should now operate. If Relay #4 operates, Then you have a bad Kill Switch Replace it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Somewhere in the above checks, you should have found the basic problem, and relay #4 should now be operating. IF YOU HAVE BYPASSED OR JUMPED ANYTHING AT THIS POINT TO GET IT TO WORK, THEN YOU SHOULD REPLACE THE FAULTY COMPONENT BEFORE OPERATING THE MOTORCYCLE, ESPECIALLY THE "TILT SENSOR" AND "KILL SWITCH". At this point, if Relay #4 works, but you still don't have an operating fuel pump, then you need to do this next group of checks. * THE FUEL PUMP WILL NOT OPERATE WITHOUT RELAY #4 WORKING. * THE FUEL PUMP WILL NOT OPERATE WITHOUT THE GROUNDING SIGNAL FROM THE ECU TO ACTIVATE RELAY #5. * QUICK CHECK of Relay #5. YOU DID REPLACE ANY BAD RELAYS THAT YOU FOUND SO FAR, DIDN'T YOU? Turn the KEY SWITCH or the KILL SWITCH ON and OFF several times. Relay #5 and the Fuel Pump should operate each time IN THIS TEST, YOU ARE TRYING TO DETERMINE IF A NORMAL SIGNAL FROM THE ECU WILL OPERATE THE FUEL PUMP. GROUND THE INDICATED LEAD WITHOUT DAMAGING THE CONNECTOR OR THE INSULATION. I USED A SHARPENED METER LEAD If they Do NOT, then you are going to have to check out the ECU. But first, verify that a signal from the ECU will operate the Fuel Pump by finding the BROWN/BLACK wire in the connector on the BACK FENDER that leads from the FUEL PUMP back towards the ECU and with the switch ON and the connector back together VERY CAREFULLY Grounding it with a jumper wire. If the Fuel Pump now operates, you are going to have to trouble shoot the wiring harnes back to the ecu and the ECU Box. If the Fuel Pump, does NOT operate, then you will have to check out the FUEL PUMP itself. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Continue | Table of Contents