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STAKING: At one time nurseries required staking, but experts discovered that staking coddled the tree and stifled its natural development of strength.

WRAPPING: Wrapping may not be necessary but has several benefits in some situations, specially to prevent sun scald. It also limits damage from insects, cats, children, rodents, and mowers. Wrap in overlapping circles. Remove the wrap in the spring after the first growing season and winter.

WATERING: Lack of enough water during the first growing season is a major cause of plant loss. The limited root system on these plants makes them highly susceptible to dry weather damage.

DWARF FRUIT TREES: Plant with bud union (where fruit tree was grafted to root stock) at least 4 inches above ground. Trunks should be tied to permanent stakes. To plant, follow the same procedure as you would use for planting bare root trees or shrubs.

SHRUBS: Cut off damaged or frayed roots before planting. Thin out tops of many branched shrubs, removing old wood. Cut tops back one-third to one-half. Never allow roots to become dry.
 
  HEDGES: Plant small shrubs which are to form a hedge less than 2 feet in height 10 to 12 inches apart on center; medium-sized bushes 12 to 18 inches apart on centers. Set tall shrubs or trees for high hedges 2 to 4 feet apart. For the latter, it is often more practical to dig individual holes than to set by the trench method. Set hedges a trifle lower than they were in the nursery to get dense growth at the bottom. Prune tops back 6 to 12 inches above the ground.
 
  STRAWBERRIES: Hill System: 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Keep runners nipped off. Matted Row: Rows 4 to 5 feet apart, plants set 24 inches apart in a row. Allow runners to fill to 24 inches wide.
 
  BUSH FRUITS: (Currents & Gooseberries): Set 2 or 3 inches deeper than in nursery. Cut off half the tops. Plant 4 or 5 feet apart. Most Currant or Gooseberry pests can be controlled by dusting or spraying with Rotenone. Always cut out infested canes.
 
  BLUEBERRIES: Highbush blueberries are a worthwhile addition to the home fruit garden -- If soil requirements are right. Soil should be moist, light textured, contain a high proportion or organic matter, with test acidity at pH 4.0 to 4.5. Set bushes 6 feet each way. Mulch each year with 3 to 4 inches of sawdust or peat. Cultivate shallowly because of shallow root system. Plant in sun for good yields.
 
  RHUBARB: Plant Rhubarb 3 feet apart in rich garden soil, with the buds 1 inch below level of the ground. Fertilize Rhubarb liberally with stable manure every year.
 
  ASPARAGUS ( Green ): Set Asparagus 2 feet apart if in a single row, with rows spaced 3 feet apart if in a bed. Plant to cover roots as for any perennial. Prepare soil by spading plenty of humus and fertilizer into it. Asparagus likes plenty of feeding so fertilize liberally with organic manure each year. Start cutting stalks when they are as thick as your thumb. Never cut thin stalks as they are probably young plants which will renew your bed. Stop cutting June 1 to 15 to allow the bed to build up for the next year.
 
  GRAPES: Dig the hole broad and deep. Cut back to 2 or 3 strong buds. Plant deep to prevent roots drying out. Fill the hole with compost or rich soil. Plant firmly, water well and mulch top. The first year tie the most vigorous shoot to a stake to form the trunk of the vine and frequently remove all other shoots and suckers.
 
 

                

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