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TIPS & TRICKS |
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Answer: Thatch is a layer directly below the surface of the ground that consists of decaying and living root, stem, stolon, and rhizome material. This layer becomes harmful after it builds to a level that it prevents water, nutrients and air to reach the soil. Dethatching is then necessary. Core aerating is also helpful. The picture below is helpful in understanding where the thatch layer is.
Answer: Moss is cause primarily by three things. Lack of lime causing an acid soil, compacted soil, lots of shade. First aerate the soil to relieve compaction. Next apply a healthy dose of lime. Pelletized type at aprox. 50# per thousand square foot. Next thin out a few low hanging branches to let in some more light. If this fails and moss is still there use a solution of copper sulfate and spray it on the moss. It will act as a herbicide and kill the moss. The best cure for keeping moss out is keeping a thick, healthy stand of grass which requires a complete and proper maintenance program. Still, if you try to eliminate existing moss, these steps are long term cures, not overnight. So be patient it will take a year or so to change the soil structure and pH so that moss will not want to grow in this area and grass does want to grow.
Answer: Aerating should be done whenever the soil reaches a state of being compacted. Some lawns will require only once per year. Others that receive a lot of traffic will need to be done more often. Sports fields are done monthly to keep them in good shape. You really need to watch your particular lawn and aerate when the soil becomes compacted. A heavy clay soil will need it more often than a sandy loam, keep this in mind.
Answer: The spots are caused from the high nitrogen in the urine. Fertilizing the lawn and using other common sense lawn care practices mentioned on this site will provide a healthy, thick turf. This is the best defense. A thick turf can absorb the urine more readily and won't be as noticeable. Start working on the long term solution now and by next year you'll be in good shape. For now, try to water the spots to weaken them if you know where they are, fertilize the whole lawn to make the dark green spots blend in with the rest of the lawn.
Answer: Fall is a good time to begin controlling vigorously growing broadleaf weeds. Young weeds are the most susceptible to chemical control. Chemicals designed for weed control work best in warm, not hot, weather.
Answer: Discover the results of applying fertilizer in the Fall. A lawn fed now spends less effort on top growth, more on building up roots. The result is a lawn that is sturdier for winter and that makes a stronger start next Spring. Lime applied in the Fall is washed by rains down into the soil, where it is needed. Winter freezing and thawing further help the process.
Answer: Fall is a very good time for either aerating or dethatching. If the lawn is compacted (feels very hard, even when moist), aerating will help to loosen the soil and allow oxygen and moisture in. If the lawn feels spongy (even when dry), dethatching will help to remove the excess decaying material, and if done early in the fall the lawn can be overseeded also.
Answer: It's the difference between the type of machine being used.
Power Rake- has a rotating set of spring tines that loosen and lift up dead grass from the surface of the lawn. Often used to freshen up the lawn in Spring.
Dethatcher- has sets if rotating blades that cut vertically into the thatch layer (the layer of decomposing material between the surface and the roots) thus reducing the total amount of thatch in the lawn. 1/4" to 1/2" of thatch is recommended to help retain moisture and reduce erosion.
Turf Sweeper- a professional type of equipment used by lawn services and golf courses. This machine has sets of rotating rubber fingers that lift and remove dead grass, leaves and debris from the lawn surface. This is very comparable to power raking, but a much larger machine.
Mulch - Mulch with leaves, pine straw, burlap, or newspaper just before a freeze.
Water - Water plants well before the freeze. Do not wet the plants while they are frozen. Make water readily available if the soil is dry.
Protect - Cover plants and their root system areas on the ground. This protection helps to prevent the drying of plants. Remove the cover as soon as the freeze danger is over. Do not be too eager to remove plants that have been frozen back from the top. They may resume growth in the spring from their roots.
Vegetable Gardening - Plant beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, cabbage, broccoli, mustard, spinach, kale and Irish potatoes. Seed in coldframe, hotbed, greenhouse: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers and eggplants. Transplant onions, shallots and celery. Start shiitake mushroom logs or cut logs while dormant.
Pruning - Timing is very important with pruning.
Prune summer-flowering and evergreen shrubs in April/May. Do not prune spring-flowering plants.
Prune only evergreen, summer-flowering and fall-flowering trees and shrubs by mid-April/May. Do not prune spring-flowering plants.
Prune established rose plants in late April/May to invigorate new growth for quality and quantity blooms.
Planting - Winter planting and preparation for spring and summer planting can be done in April/May.
Prepare planting beds for spring and summer annuals.
Plant roses in N.W. Wisconsin in mid April. Set out plants when soil can be worked well. Do not plant when soil is wet. Prepare beds well before planting. Raise beds for proper drainage.
Many annuals may be planted in April/May including Petunias, Calendula, Larkspur, Pinks, Snap Dragons, Phlox, Sweet Alyssum, Gladiolus, Salvia, Early Cosmos, and Cornflower.
Plant gladiolus in mid April?May in N.W. Wisconsin. Prolong blooming season of gladiolus by planting a few each week until mid-March.
Potted plants received for Christmas should be placed in an area of the house receiving full sunlight. Keep soil slightly moist. Avoid exposing plants to sudden changes in temperature.
Remove old foliage and flowers from garden chrysanthemums.
A common error in landscaping is overplanting. Overplanting will cause continual and difficult maintenance as well as poor garden design. Planting size and proper spacing of plants to allow for maximum plant size is important for proper development and an attractive arrangement of plants.
Plants Promote Wellness - Plants can have a considerable impact on your well being. Research has shown that patients recover quicker when they have a view of a nice landscape. It has also been shown that an attractive landscape can play an important part in reducing stress. A new landscape can help make your home a healthier, happier place to live!
