You might think the first step is determining which parts you need to build your new system, I have found that is partially true. Yes, I did start off that way, but have learned a valuable lesson. So far it hasn't been bad, just not what I expected. Some of you might be surprised, but this is my first time actually building a system from scratch. I have upgraded and modified my OEM Computer, but never sat down, figured out what I wanted in a new system and built it. So this is my first endeavor into this and I am going to share my some of my trials and tribulations in building a 1.33Ghz AMD Athlon Computer. This system that I built works with both Linux and Windows (I couldn't install Debian Linux though, I used Mandrake 8.0)
First of all, I would say that having a really good idea what you want is a good first step. Determine your needs first though. What do you use your computer for, what do you plan on doing with it in the future? If you don't play games then do you really need the fastest system around? Face it, if most people would do general maintenance on their computers, like defragmentation, cleaning up temporary files, keeping the startup programs to a minimum, they would probably find the computer they have faster and more responsive. Also, maybe all you really need is more memory. If you have 64MB memory or less, adding another 32MB or higher will really help out your system. Take a look at your harddrive, if you still have a 5400RPM drive, then upgrading to a 7200RPM will also decrease your bootup time and increase your response time. Those are two options that will save you some money and make your current computer much much faster.
If you still determine that it is a new system that you want. You could buy one off the shelf. Pros: Easier, faster, less trouble for the technically challanged, less time consuming, ready to run, tech support (may or may not be good though). Cons: Less Configureable, may have trouble upgrading later (especially if you get a Compaq Persario), learn less, may not come with everything you want or with less quality on some parts to save money.
By all means though, if you don't have a willing friend to help you and/or you don't feel technically up to the task, then your only option is a OEM Computer.
If it is your decision to build your own computer, then have a good idea on what you want to use it for, what you would like to have in the system, what your budget constraints are. If you are going for the cutting edge technology, you might have to put a little more work into it also, cause the parts you want might be in short supply. So have a alternative that is acceptable to you available. Read the Reviews put out on hardware you want, there are some excellent places on the Internet to find this information. I will get into what pieces to start picking in a bit, but I would like to start off with Places to get hardware first.
By the way, if you are wanting this computer for just Windows or Linux or a Dual Boot System. Do research in the appropriate places to make sure that what you want to get works with that Operating System(s). One item I recommend that works with Linux and Windows is the HP CD-Writer Plus 9100 series. If you are using it for Windows it comes with a Disaster Recovery Program. I know someone that bought a Sony CD-Writer and couldn't backup their Windows system without buying another backup program, also they had a Compaq Persario and it won't recognize it as a backup device. Then they waited too long and couldn't take it back.
Hardware Supplies: If you live near places that sell hardware to build your own computer, like Fry's Electronics in California, then you are lucky! Once you decide what you want you can probably just go right down there and pick it off the shelf. If you are like me, then you are stuck with Mail Order. One good place to start is with www.pricewatch.com , where you can find a large listing of places to order parts from. You will find that some of the websites don't have very good descriptions of the parts, they may list items as major brand or name brand, some don't even list the prices. A good place to check for prices and parts is at www.pricewatch.com . Some of this is my experience getting parts (The Good, the Bad and the Ugly) Skip through the parts if you already have experience with this.
I found a place that gave very good descriptions on most of their items, the prices were listed and seemed very good. The place is Abilty Computers at www.abilitywholesale.com. I didn't like the price on memory though, so went to www.crucial.com for that. Picking memory at Crucial (division of Micron) was pretty easy. At that time they had free 2nd Day Air delivery also, so ordered my memory late Friday night and got it by Tuesday afternoon. I ordered the parts from Ability Computers at the same time and 2nd Day Air, by Wednesday (according to UPS tracking) my system would be ready to start building. I noticed that the package seemed a little light and when it was delivered two items were missing. My CPU and Case were on backorder. Well, things happen and that was okay, just have to wait a little bit. Decided to check Ability Computers website for more information. According to it, my order was still Pending, no items were listed there as being backordered and both items that were on backorder were still listed as InStock. Wrote them a email (very polite) inquiring about it, still haven't received a reply. Thursday got an email saying that I had a package being sent, checking at the UPS tracking site, revealed a 0.4 lbs package. So I can safely say that the CPU is coming now, problem is that it is coming Ground and won't be here till Monday. No it isn't costing me anything since already paid for shipping, but did pay for 2nd Day Air originally. Lesson learned here is probably better off saving your money if ordering multiple items and just have it sent Ground, since you might end up getting the last part you need to even start sent Ground anyway. Now I am waiting for the Case to be sent, it will probably be sent UPS Ground. So I have everything ready to Go, but no Case to put it in. I could use my old OEM case, but don't want to dismantel it twice, so will have to wait.
Ability Computers: Pros: Parts have came packaged well, in good shape, website has good detail, security seems good (they say they don't store your Credit Card number, so have to enter it each time), ordering was easy. Cons: Website updating atrocious (everything still say's In Stock, your order information never changes from original order), Ordering 2nd Day Air and will still get Backordered items Ground (this might me a norm, don't know), email replies to your questions about the order never answered, Talk to a Rep and you get the very polite run around (they are very polite), they never return a phone call even when they say they will.
Crucial Technology: Pros: Parts have came packaged well, in good shape, website has good detail, security seems good, ordering was easy (you pick your Computer Manufacturer for OEM's or your Motherboard and it gives you an exact list of what memory you need (see cons)), free 2nd Day Air (at that time), best price I found. Cons: nothing really except that even with the ease of ordering it still might be a little hard for some systems to pick the memory you need without a little more background information. That is mainly with Motherboards and not OEM's.
CPU came in Monday, 10 days after original order. Just got notice from UPS that they tried to drop off the case (was sent ground like thought, woman at Ability Computers actually (politely) told me that she sent a email saying it was sent and sent 2nd Day, No email was received and was sent ground, see what I mean from earlier statement). So will get the case 13 days after ordering. Picked up the Case Thursday at UPS. Came in good shape even though there was a dent in the box. Got home and ready to build. After opening the case found my 300 Watt Power Supply missing. Well, Power Supply was there, but was a 250 Watt instead. You can use a 250 Watt if you want to and if you don't add much, it will probably work fine, but I did order it with a 300 Watt and as you can guess another call was placed to Ability Computers. They told me they would send a 300 Watt out Next Day Air and I can send the 250 Watt back when I can. Monday still no Power Supply, called Ability and it was sent out 2nd Day Air, not Next Day Air. Was unloaded at UPS here at 3:08pm, they say I am scheduled for dropoff today. Hope so, still to not leave you in suspense I can tell you I still built the system with the 250 Watt P.S. and will put the 300 Watt in when it gets here.
Getting Ready: Since the case will be picked-up at UPS tomorrow I started getting the Motherboard ready. Before this I got the Harddrive ready. To do this easier I put it in my current system as a secondary to the primary C: drive. In order to get the system to recognize it I had to go to Western Digitals website and download a utility to do so. After setting up the C: drive as Master and the new Western Digital 20GB Drive as Slave when I installed it, I used the utility to Format the new Harddrive (watch out here so you don't format your C: drive) and copy the contents over to it. I took the old harddrive out after this and installed the New Harddrive as 'stand alone' in the current system. You will have to change a jumper on the drive to do this, cause it is no longer master or slave, but 'stand alone'. Now the drive is ready to be installed in the new system.
Another good hint is to know what kind of Bios your motherboard will be using. Look on the Internet for 'Beep Codes'. These are codes that your Internal Speaker will beep if there is any problem booting up. These will be handy for troubleshooting if you have a problem getting the system up.
Now with the Motherboard, CPU, memory,... you have to be careful because these devices are static sensitive. Don't want to spend this kind of money to break it. It would be important for you to use the BAG the Motherboard came in to lay the board on and install your parts. You can also go to RadioShack,... and get a Wriststrap. This is to help you discharge yourself before and during the handling of these parts. Here is a picture of what you want. The band straps on your wrist, the alligator clip is clipped onto a good ground. This kind will detach from the band if you need to leave and get something, but leave clip on the ground. Then just hook the band back up again before you start. Now the question is, before you actually have the parts in the computer how do you get a good ground to make sure you are discharged of Static? One way would be to get your old computer out, plug it in to a Receptacle and clip onto a metal part that isn't painted, you don't have to turn it on. Another way is to buy a device that you can plug into a Receptacle and do the same. If you know what you are doing, I took an unused power cord, clipped off the flat blades and left the ground, cut off the hot and neutral lines at the other end. Plugged it in and clipped the alligator clip to the ground. The first two options are the safest, and no matter which one you use, use caution to make sure you are clipping onto a ground and not power, use a meter and don't use this option unless you KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING! These are just options and use them at your own discretion, I am not liable if you screw up and shock or kill yourself. You can more than likely just make sure that the parts are on an anti-static bag, wear the anti-static wrist clip, clip it to a metal part on the motherboard and not hurt any part. After you have built the computer, don't do this, clip to the chassis of the Case, Not the motherboard! Also, read your manual that came with the motherboard, it will tell you about any jumper settings. Most of the defaults will be fine, just check them to make sure they are set correctly to what they say and what you want.
I didn't have the Case yet, so will show how to put the parts in before mounting the motherboard. It is really not important here which is done first. If you have the case, then you can mount the motherboard to the chassis. My Full-Tower came with a pull-out section for the motherboard. Make sure you use ALL the mounting standoffs. Don't skimp here. If something is hard to push in place you run the risk of cracking the motherboard or a circuit trace. Since I didn't have a case yet, these are pictures of installing the parts I had first.
Installing the CPU is easy. Some pins are missing so you can't mess up here. Pull the Socket Handle a little to the side and it should lift right up. Orient the CPU with the pins in the socket and push in place. You might have to push a little bit. As long as you have the pins aligned correctly they will pop right into place. After you have it seated, lower the socket handle and lock into place. These are pictures of my AMD Thunderbird 1.33Ghz Socket A (266Mhz) CPU.
Next get the HeatSink and Fan ready. You can buy these as a combo. Get what is recommended by the Manufacturer for the CPU or better. You can read some good reviews of heatsinks on the Internet. There may be a piece of Thermal Tape on the bottom, you need to pull off the thermal tape cover. If you are not going to overclock this CPU then you can probably get away with using the Thernal Tape on the heatsink bottom. I removed mine (even though not overclocking) and put my own Thermal compound. If you want to do that, then soak it in a little alcohol to remove it. Next put a little of the thermal compound on the bottom where the cpu core will touch. Thin is best. Spread it around, then with a razor, wipe it across the bottom (without scratching) to remove the excess. Like I said, thin is better. You just want to fill the tiny air pockets between the two!! Putting extra compound on will not do you any good, and may actually hurt the heat transfer. So just wipe it on thin. Then Install the Heatsink. These are pictures of my Thermaltake Volcano II Socket A heatsink and fan. I have since gotten a better heatsink and you can read about it at the bottom.
Next install the memory. These are also made so you can only install them one way, so hard to mess up. The thing to make sure is that you stick it in the proper socket. Look in the motherboard manual or right on the motherboard and it should say which socket is 1, 2, 3. If you buy more than one Memory module, stick the largest one in the first socket and so on. Open both socket handles, insert the module. You might have to push a little bit. When you get it far enough in you should be able to close the handles to finish the job.
Next install your IDE cables. These are the cables to your Harddrives, CDROM, Floppy,.. There is a Primary and Secondary for them. Which to install where might be of some confusion. Also make sure you get the correct cable for the drives. These cables are for Ultra 66 drives, if you have a Ultra 33 drive you can still use them, but not the other way around. I put my harddrives on the Primary (#1) with the C drive as the Master and the other harddrive as the Slave. Then I installed the CD Drives on the Secondary (#2) with the CD-Writer as the Master and CDROM as the Slave. Depending on what components you have you will have a different configuration. One thing to note is that the end connector of the cable is for the Master and the middle connector is for the Slave. You also will have jumpers on the Drives that you will have to set for which way you set it up. You will have to consult the paperwork you got with it or sometimes it is on the drive itself to figure this out.
Install all the motherboard stand offs in the places that match the motherboard. Install them on the Case. Make sure you use all of them and also make sure that you don't install any where there isn't a hole. You don't want to risk shorting out the motherboard. Mount the motherboard in place. You might have to remove some tabs from the case for the connectors for your mouse, printer,..... to fit. Mine still have some in place.
Next take the cover off the front so you can install your drives. Your hard drives will fit into the 3.5" slots or you can get a mounting bracket and install them in the bigger slots. Hard Drives will not be exposed in front, but you CDROM, CD-Writer, Zip drive and 3.5" Floppy will, so you will have to take off the front covers for them. As you can see in the picture below, I have the 3.5" Floppy already installed at top and one of the internal covers off for the CD-Writer. Where ever you stick them, MAKE SURE that your cables will reach! There are different configurations for what to install as Master and Slaves. You might find what you do may not work great later, it is easy enough to change again later. Swap places around, configure the jumpers on the drives and install the cables,..
Connect up the Power Supply connectors to the Drives and Motherboard (I finally got the 300 Watt today from Ability Computers. 18 Days after I ordered it. Also they didn't send any slip for me to return the 250 Watt that mistakenly came with the case. I'm not sending it back to them at my cost after the way they cost me time and money). These connectors from the Power Supply only go in one way so you can't mess up. The smaller one goes to the Floppy, but you should be able to figure that out. Also if you look in the picture you will see an extra fan I installed. There is a place for another one in this case I might add later. Get a good one, this one has ball-bearings so should last. On Fans: I have read that if you decide to have one pull air in also, that you need to have as much air going in as out. So read the CFM (cubic feet per minute) on the fans you want so you can get the right configuration or it might be worse and noiser (so CFM IN = CFM OUT). Test I have read also indicate that if you have a fan pulling air in, you might end up just circulating hot air. I think it is better to just have fans blowing out, they will pull in the air they need.
You also need to connect up the case power button, reset, LEDS to the the motherboard. If your not sure where look in your manual, it will have a connector for the Front Panel. For switches like the Reset and Power orientation doesn't matter, for the LEDS it does. For the LEDS connect the colored wire to the postive position on the connector (positive is + also called anode, negative is - also called cathode). Don't worry if you have something like a '2nd HD' which stands for 2nd Hard Drive and don't have a place for it on the motherboard. I didn't either, would have been nice though.
If everything is in order: Motherboard in place, All connections made, Drives Configured (much easier if already have the Main Hard Drive ready), All jumpers set correctly, Power Supply set for correct voltage (look at the back of it and it may have a switch for 115VAC and 230VAC. More than likely it will be 115VAC, make sure it is set to that if that is your incoming power). It is time to connect the Printer, Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor (if you don't have an PCI, ISA or AGP Video Card you better have made sure that your Motherboard came with some kind of onboard video. Mine didn't come with video, but I had PCI Video Card). Below is the final pictures of the system being built.
This is a list of the components here: Case - InWin Full Tower with 300Watt PS, ATX Case. Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-7DX Rev4.0. CPU -AMD Athlon Thunderbird 1.33Ghz Socket A. CPU Fan & Heatsink -Thermaltake, Socket A, Volcano II. Hard Drives - Maxtor 13.6GB, 7200RPM and Western Digital 20GB 7200RPM. Floppy - Samsung Floppy Disk. Extra Case Fan - Yate Loon 80mmx80mm. CDROMS - HP CD-Writer 9110 Plus and CDROM from original HP Pavilion computer. Network Card - Linksys Network Everywhere Model NC100 Fast Ethernet 10/100 Card. Video - Creative Labs Graphics Blaster RivaTNT (I know, plan on getting a better one later).
Actually I was a little disappointed, because I wouldn't have anything to write that could help someone, but very happy that everything worked on my first attempt to build my own computer. When you do get your system up though, if you get one with hardware monitoring you can set it up to watch your system. This CPU has a maximum temp of 95 degrees C. It is running at 69 to 72 degrees C. I have the warning set to 80 degrees. It also has a CPU Fan monitor for the speed, which I have set to watch for fan failure. Also changed the Bios to load the video from the PCI slot instead of the AGP slot. I'll change that when I get a AGP Video Card. So for now this is it on building a computer, I recommend this one to anyone out there. I will add new stuff whenever I install something.
New Fan information: I moved the extra fan from the Upper position above the Power Supply to the Lower Position below the Power Supply, look at the pictures to see what I am talking about. This seems to keep the CPU a little cooler. Normal temp with nothing heavy running now seems to be a steady 68 to 69 degrees C (lately been running at about 65 degrees C). I ran Half-Life for a bit and the CPU temp only went up to 71 degrees C. After doing some reading I also drilled a few new holes in the bottom of my 300 Watt Power Supply Case. The 250 Watt had the intake at the bottom, the new one had it in front. So I took off the cover and made about 6 new 1/4" holes just over the CPU. There were heat sinks in the Power Supply near the front so I didn't want to circumvent them, but add a little more pulling power from the CPU. Also when you install fans make sure that they are flowing in the direction you want them too, some have marks on them.
Problems: So far the system has been running great for several months. Had normal software problems. Did have one problem where the computer wouldn't boot, would just beep once. I was too lazy to search through all my paperwork for the BIOS beep codes, so took my first best guess and swapped the memory cards (probably could have just reseated them). That worked, been running fine since then. Funny thing is that it had been running fine for several months before that happened. Time will tell.
New Heatsink information: Better and hotter CPU's have came out since. Not sure they are any hotter than the TBird core I have, but heatsinks have gotten better. I just install one of the newer ones. Vantec Aeroflow VA4-C7040 - Very unique design and is made with aluminum and a copper core. It also has a 5600 RPM speed fan with a 35.5 CFM air flow. Noise level is very low thanks to the Tip-Magnetic Driving Fan. Sitting at idle in Linux my previous heatsink temp was 69.6 degrees C. This new temp was around 49.2C with ambient air around 23.3C . Oh, forgot, idle was with Foldingathome running in the background. Actual idle temp would have been lower. Now with Foldingathome shutdown, then temp is 44.1C at idle. That is better than 25C from my first heatsink temp when I first installed it (wasn't running Foldingathome when first built computer). Part of that is helped by the new fan, which is spinning at approx. 5275-5318 RPM (runs up to 5363 when Foldingathome going). Where the older fan was usually around 4600-4740 RPM. Even though, the new fan is barely louder if at all. I read the review on it at Tomshardware.com and would recommend this heatsink. It comes with it's own thermal compound so you won't need to get any.
Then if set the HALT Disconnect bit and Stop Grant Disconnect bit on the Northbridge 761 I can get it down to 28.0C . The only problem is after awhile of not doing anything the system will lock up. Haven't solved that one yet. So still playing with it.
