1956 Dodge D500 Engine Rebuild                           updated: 11/6/07      

Document owner:                                                  This table of info is what I gathered to rebuild my

Dave Homstad                                                         56 D500 Hemi engine in 1990, with a few improvements for

7220 Upper 164th St.                                              power and reliability. Much (but not all) of this info will also

Rosemount, MN 55068                                           apply to other 53 to 58 Dodge Hemi (241/270/315/325) and Poly

(952) 432-3596, evenings                                        engines. Alternate sources are also included.

E-Mail:  DHomstad@charter.net                           A star (*) indicates the source I used.

1956 Dodge D500 Engine specifications (factory):

S/N Marking on block: D500-XXXX                                      

Bore: 3.626                                          Compression ratio: 9.25

Stroke: 3.800 (Because of a long stroke, limit RPM to 5200 max.;

                      critical rod tension [i.e. disintegration] @ 6200 RPM)

Cubic Inches: 315                              

Horsepower (1-4 bbl): 260 factory; as mine is built: 300 (550 CFM carb)

                    (2-4 bbl): 285 factory;   "     "    "    "  : 320 (680 CFM) (per my engine builder's computer)

MPORTANT news about modern motor oils. Recently the Oil Industry has reduced or eliminated the additive ZDDP from motor oils with an API rating of SM or higher. This additive protected the high pressure camshaft/lifter interface from wear. Without this additive, your cam will go flat. Read more details about "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!" at: http://www.dctra.org/?p=79

Rebuild Parts Sources Used:

* Pistons: Ross Racing Pistons, Hawthorne, CA (310) 644-9779 or (800) 392-ROSS:

            Forged, flat top, c/r 9.5, with fitted pins (Chevrolet size: 0.927; 0.006 larger than original),

            need one original piston for pattern, .007 wall clearance, plasma spray chrome/moly rings

            (Sealed Power set 9112KX +.030 [bore increase] ). Because newer head gaskets are thicker, order

            about 0.3 extra c/r. Example: order 9.5 c/r to get 9.2 c/r on finished engine). Works good on

            unleaded premium gas. Should a valve ever drop, a forged piston will not shatter like a cast piston.

            This could prevent total engine destruction (it did in a friend's D500, my son's 340, and a friend's 455 Olds

            race engine). This is a performance engine!

            Mopar original piston/pin assy P/N:

                      standard       1752251

                      .005 over      1752252

                      .020 over      1752253

                      casting          1731561 (this is the # of the casting, which is machined and assembled into the

                                                         above P/Ns)

           Poly pistons are not the same: weight, c/r, valve clearance notches have different locations and depth, etc.

          Arias also has a good reputation for pistons.

          Jahns and Egge cast pistons not recommended by others.

   *     Ross forged pistons, with pins, per set of 8 = $500 (1990 prices).

          Kanter cast pistons, per set of 8 = $440 (1998 prices)

          Chris Nielson      

Bearings:

      *  rod: J. C. Whitney, (312) 431-6102, P/N 37-7632P, .010 undersize (mfg: Michigan Bearings)

                 Clevite

                 Chris Nielson

     *  cam: J.C. Whitney, P/N 37-0366B

                  Egge

                  Kanter    

         main: Egge Machine (213) 945-3419

                 Kanter Auto  (800) 526-1096

                 Chris Nielson, Farmington, UT (801) 451-7745

* Oil pump: Melling, (517) 787-8172, P/N M-50 (same as 392 Hemi), 65 PSI hot

*               Pump drive shaft P/N 1S-47  

Heads:

     Valves are 440 Mopar with correct stem diameter and length, cut valve head to fit:

*       Intake valves: Ferrea # 1502, cut to 1.875 dia. (888) 733-2505

*       Exhaust valves: Ferrea # 1503, one-piece stainless for unleaded fuel, cut to 1.53 dia.

             One-piece exhaust valves are stronger than two-piece. (The head came off a two-piece in my son's 340).

*       Hardened exhaust seat: Martin Wells, (original 56 D500 heads had no seat inserts; 57 D500 heads do)

*       Keepers:  Crower, single groove

*       Valve guides: bronze inserts

*       Valve springs: mine came from Schneider with the reground cam (see info below)

                Also: Mopar Performance: P/N  P4120259, single coil, for standard early Hemi/Poly engines.

                                                            P/N  P4120284, dual coil, for D500 & performance engines.

                                                            P/N  P4120492, Viton seals, for single coil springs only.

* Gasket set: Felpro (800) 457-3554

*                      Engine: FS7790-PT-3 / 31064 (complete set)

                       Intake: MS9322SH / 45191

                       Exhaust: LB9605

*                Carb: Echlin # 2-5039A

Camshaft:  Factory specs:

*My original cam was reground by Schneider Cams, San Diego, CA (619) 297-0227, specs above.

They also provided: dual coil valve springs # 6500/6600 (290 lbs. open: 115 lbs. closed), solid lifters # 5426, pushrods (3/8 chromoly). Limit lift to .435 to avoid valve train geometry problems. This cam has a very slight lope and excellent torque curve from idle to 5500 RPM. I think I would increase the intake duration to 280 next time. I would also consider converting to a hydraulic lifter cam. Only the 56 D500 used a solid lifter cam, all other Dodges were hydraulic lifter cams. Solid lifter valve clearance adjustment at .016 intake and exhaust per Schneider recommendation. Factory adjustment is .012 intake, .022 exhaust. Other cam manufacturers may recommend a different clearance. A detailed adjustment procedure is included latter in this document. Valve train RPM limit is 6500 RPM (rods could break above 6200 RPM) before valve float.  

Factory pushrods have a cup at the top to mate with the adjuster. On mine, half of the original pushrods exhibited radial fractures of this cup, and two had small pieces missing. Replacement pushrods are recommended. The adjuster screws are the same as used on slant 6's. If the heads are milled and the block decked, you may want to subtract an equal amount from the pushrod length. If the rocker arms are dressed at the valve end, you may want to add an equal length, keeping in mind the rocker ratio. Also, adjustable pushrods could be used, or simply used to measure the exact length needed for ordering new pushrods.

* Replacement pushrods. Smith Brothers Push Rods, (541) 388-8188.

Also: Chris Neilson Cams (801) 451- 7745    New reproduction cams for early Mopar Hemi / Poly,

          Box 416                                               & other engine parts, bearings, pistons, etc.

         Farmington, UT 84025

         Engle Cams

Timing chain & gear set (same as 318/340):

      * Mopar Performance P4120262, $50 (1990 prices) (magnafluxed sprockets, double roller chain).

         Kanter's standard set is $80 (1998 prices).

*Rod cap bolts: ARP # 144 6001, Specialty Fasteners, Azusa, CA  (818) 969-6789, (800) 826-3045.

Distributor lower drive bushing (a.k.a. oil pump drive shaft bushing): same as 318/340 engine,

*         Mopar P/N 1737725. Important to use the proper Chrysler tool to install. See your dealer, they replace lots

          of these on new V6 engines.

*Engine Paint: Firepower Silver: Mopar # P4529148 (block, heads, intake, water pump, gen. brackets, pulleys,

                                                       draft tube, etc.)

                        Red Mopar:  # P4349218 (valve covers and air cleaner on D500 only)

                        Golden Lion Gold:  # P4529149 (used on Fury and C300 air cleaners)

                        Semi-gloss black (fan, generator, starter, distributor, coil, oil filter shell, oil filler cap, spark plug wire cover)

                        POR 15 Engine paints: they have “Silver” and a couple of reds. Maximum durability if used with

                                                               recommended preparation methods.

Engine Decals:  

*Water pump: NAPA

*Fuel pump: NAPA

*Fan belts: NAPA # 25-14353 NBH (58 1/2 inches), Gates 7530, matched pair for D500 or PS.

*Radiator hoses: Lower: Gates #21660

                  Gates Rubber Co.                     free catalog: "Gates Car & Light Truck Applications for years

                  P.O. Box 5887                         1911 - 1980", 377 pages, Catalog # 31-2050, hoses, belts, radiator caps,

                  Denver, CO 80217                    fuel caps, thermostats.

*Freeze plugs: 1 5/8 dia., NAPA # 219-1014

*Battery cables: Antique Auto Battery, (800) 426-7580, with original style terminals:

                 Positive: MP18 / 65  (18 inches), black            These are one inch longer than original to allow for

                 Negative: MN 19 / 65  (19 inches),black          different locations of terminals on modern batteries.

*           Starter cable, black:  NAPA

Oil filter adapter: replace old canister with modern spin-on filters (more efficient, cheaper, & no leaks):

*                 1.   Kent Redd                           (417) 467-2256  (Tell him I sent you)

                          Route 1, Box 62

                         Pleasant Hope, MO 65725

                   2.  Hot Heads, P/N 20102,          http://www.hothemiheads.com  

       Note: because of the wide Hemi head valve covers on a D500, there is not adequate clearance to remove

                  the canister shell from the car (unless the valve cover is removed). The shell must be turned upside

                 down in the engine compartment for the filter element to be replaced. Spin-on filters are smaller

                  in diameter and easily removed.

PowerFlight transmission:

      Torque converter seal: same as TorqueFlight (do it now while the engine is out or you will be sorry).

                                            Also the o-ring on the converter drive sleeve.

       Transmission kits, complete overhaul or external seals only:

                Northwest Transmission Parts: 800-327-1955

                Fatsco: 800-524-0485

Spark plugs: *Champion RJ12YC                  Original plugs were Autolite 4S-250.

                     AC R44S

                     Autolite 85

                     AC Rapid Fire #7

*Voltage regulator fuses: NAPA # VRF 35. Burn a fuse instead of a wiring harness or the whole car.

Services:

See shop manual for machine and assembly tolerances.

    Special tolerances: piston / wall per piston manufacturer's recommendation.

*            Main bearings: .0016 to .0020 for improved oil flow/cooling (factory is 0.0005 - 0.0015)

*            Rod bearings:   .0017 to .0019           "               "         "            "              "             "

             Note: old timers have told me that the rod bearings wear out as early as 75,000 miles and

                        mains tend to last forever. Increased oil flow and cooling should extend rod bearing life.

*Crankshaft: magnaflux, turn / align / straighten, chamfer oil holes, balance, polish, heat treat / nitride.

         (Check available bearing sizes before turning.) These are a well built forged steel crank, but they do not

        like high RPM because of the long stroke. Limit to 5200 RPM.

*Rods: recondition, magnaflux, balance, length per shop manual specs, small end bushing can be increased

        in diameter to true up instead of replacing entire bushing if using wrist pins per Ross recommendation

        ("original size wrist pins are not available") above. See piston paragraph above.

*Heads: magnaflux, hardened exhaust seats, 3-angle valve grind, ported and manifolds matched.

             Ported Intake:    164 CFM @ .400 lift, 172 CFM @ .500.

            Ported Exhaust: 147 CFM @ .400 lift, 161 CFM @ .500.

*Block: magnaflux, align bore mains, bore, hone to 10 -15 micro inch finish or better, deck, etc.

Exhaust manifolds: Jet Hot Coatings (800- 432-3379), cast iron gray .

Harmonic balancer rebuild, old rubber may have hardened (ineffective for dampening) or separated:

           Damper Dudes (800-413-2673)

            Damper Doctor (530-246-2984)

Rocker arm/shaft reconditioning: Sterling Engine Service, (209) 267-5081

                                                     Rocker Arm Specialist, (530) 378-1075

Motor mount Re-vulcanize: http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm  

* Transmission mounts, new, Imperial Services, (989) 652-6309):  http://www.imperialservices.net/

Modifications:

Transmission: The single greatest performance improvement is gained bt replacing the original 2 speed PowerFlight

                    transmission with a 3 speed TorqueFlight. For details on this swap, go to the [ Transmission ] page.

Camshaft profile: as described above.

Exhaust: Sanderson Headers: 800-669-2430; block hugger headers # DD4, will fit all Dodge Hemi engines OK,

             but I have not yet confirmed they will clear the 56 Dodge suspension control arms and steering.

              Factory manifolds are very inefficient. They can be ordered with Jet Hot Coating applied. These do not fit

              Poly engines.

*Intake Manifold: Offenhauser (213-225-1307), dual 4 bbl, still available new. These were available in late 56

          and were used for 57 Super D500s with factory dual quads. Offy also has a 3x2 manifold. These also fit 315/325

          Poly engines. The 1956 factory dual quad, P/N 1733878, is very rare and not as good as the Offy, which

          replaced it in 1957. I port matched the intake runners to the head ports.

Carbs: this engine needs about 550 CFM for peak performance (per my engine builder's computer).

          a. Stock single 4 bbl: Carter WCFB 2443S, 320 CFM (way too small, strangles engine).

 *      b. Dual 4 bbl: ('56 or '57 Mopar) WCFB, 340 CFM ea., 680 CFM total, vacuum secondaries.

             (My engine has a pair from a '57 318 Fury: 2631S & 2632S). Requires shortening of heater hose pipes at

             back of water pump, or a different angled fitting. Stock throttle linkage was shortened to fit.

         c.  Stock 56 manifold can be drilled and tapped, and throttle bores opened up to accept a Carter AFB

              or Eldebrock. Try about 600 CFM, or less without the head porting and cam changes.

*Ignition: stock distributor # IBK 4301A, dual point (this has the most conservative factory advance curve of any

           '55 - '57 Mopar):

                initial      = 2 deg

                mech       = 19 deg  total (3 deg @ 850 rpm, 10 deg @ 1500 rpm, 19 deg @ 4800 rpm)

                 vacuum   = 23 deg (starts @ 7.5 in Hg, full @ 17 in Hg)

                total         = 44 deg ( the 56 315 - 2 bbl is 60 deg)

                point gap = .017           Dwell (dual points) = 36-39 deg.;   single points = 30 deg.

     Suggested advance curve changes (much peppier at low and midrange RPM):

*              1.   Distributor cam & plate from IBJ 4301 (56 Dodge/Ply 270 V8) = 30 deg total mech advance

*              2.   Initial timing = 5 deg (The goal is 35 degrees total mechanical advance for maximum performance)

*              3.   Remove "heavy" advance spring, replace with light spring from IBJ 4301 for faster advance

                     (remaining original "light" spring is about the same as other heavy springs)

*              4.   Vacuum chamber (controls travel limit) Autolite # IAZ 2023RF, (56 Dodge 315 Poly  4 bbl)

                            = 16 deg. (Most vacuum chambers for other 55 - 57 Mopar engines have more degrees of travel.

                                             The range is from 8 to 26 degrees.)

                            or # IAZ 2023RB (55 Dodge 270 Hemi) = 14 deg.

                           Because we have added more mechanical advance, some of the advance needs to be removed

                            from the vacuum advance, to avoid excessive advance and detonation. The goal is about 50

                          degrees combined mechanical and vacuum.

            5.  Vacuum adv spring (controls adv rate): most are quicker rates than original D500, need to experiment.

*                          I used one from a 55 Dodge Poly 270 (starts @ 5.2 in. Hg, full @ 11 in Hg, when used with the

                           vacuum chamber above).

             The 56 Dodge Poly 315 - 4 bbl distributor, IBJ 4303B, is very close to the above combination, but is fairly

                  uncommon to find. Specs are:

                         initial timing = 4 deg

                         mech adv     = 30 deg (also has a much faster curve than D500)

                         vacuum        = 16 deg (starts @ 5.5 in. Hg)

                         total              = 50 deg    

Distributor, breakerless electronic conversion of original Autolite: invisible, fits under the cap. The following kits, made by PerTronix, are available from Royze, Inc. (800-421-2011, www.royze.com ):

*      CH392            1956 - 58, 12 volt, dual point only, all Hemi/Poly, 318 A series engines

       CH331P6        1951 - 55, 6 volt, dual point only, all Hemi/Poly engines

       CH413            1959 - 72, dual point only, B and RB series engines only

PerTronix (www.pertronix.com ), now has a conversion for all dual point Mopar V8s from 1951 1958, P/N Ignitor 1383.  

1. If your distributor is not a dual point, then an interchangeable (same shaft length) dual point distributor could be installed. Or, a single point distributor could be converted by swapping in the breaker plate and cam/plate from a dual point (these 2 parts must be dual point parts to maintain "phasing" relative to the distributor cap). The length of the slot in the cam/plate controls the total mechanical advance and a different cam/plate will probably have a different value, affecting total timing advance. Also, a 1959 or newer 318/340 single point Mopar distributor will fit a 241/270 (a 315/325 needs an adapter) and can use the PerTronix breakerless conversion (Ignitor # 1381A) (cheaper than Royze dual point conversion). There are no conversions yet for 1958 and older single point Autolite distributors.

Distributor, late model electronic: The electronic distributor for any 318/340/360 LA engine will fit into a 241 or 270 Dodge without modification. Mopar Performance kit, P/N P3690426 (318/340/360), includes distributor, wiring harness, external control module, ballast resistor, and instructions. To fit into a 315 or 325, an adapter is required because the shaft is too short. Distributor adapters for 315/325 can be obtained from:

            Kent Redd, (417) 467-2256

            Reath Automotive, (562) 426-6901

Ignition coil: the original stock coil is OK, but a little weak for performance. I like a little hotter spark, 40,000

*     volts. I use a Jacobs Electronics (800-627-8800, www.jacobselectronics.com/ ) Energy Coil # 380672T,

       and ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the original, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms). Set the plug gap at .045

       (stock was .032). I get instant starts. Available in either black or chrome.

Hint: the factory used a red spark plug wire boot at the distributor cap to identify the # 1 wire. Very useful for

       timing with a clip-on inductive timing light when the wires are buried under the spark plug wire cover.

       These can often be found on Mopar parts cars.

Fuel: suggest unleaded premium 92 octane, does not ping with above combinations and 9.3 CR. I tried a lower

        octane and had slight pinging on a hot day.

*Air cleaner: convert from an oil bath 4 bbl a/c to paper element for less mess and lower restriction:

       Cut the side of the lid around the perimeter about 1.5 inches down from the top. Remove the oil element stuff.

      Carefully chisel the spot-welds, 6 places, holding the oil element vanes to the top of the lid. Optional: remove

      the throat of the base, but not the carb seat,  to open up the throat from 2" diameter to 4" for better breathing.

      Use 2 filters (7 1/2" ID, 2" high) for an early 80's Dodge Colt, Plymouth Horizon, or Honda Civic):

             Mopar L573                       FRAM  CA3490                   Motorcraft FA869      

             AC A757C                         Purolator FCA15                   K-Mart KA55

             Also, a K & N washable element could be used: 7 ˝” ID x 4” high.

*PCV System: cut off the draft tube about 4 inches (to extend out from under the intake manifold) from the bolt that attached it to the lifter valley cover. Weld or braze a cap over the end and attach a 3/8 tube 1.5 inches long. A spacer plate with a PCV pipe under the carb or a threaded pipe directly into the intake manifold is required to inhale the fumes. Select a PCV from a common engine of similar displacement. I chose one from a GM that is a simple inline that has hose fittings at each end. Install this between the draft tube and carb spacer/manifold pipe. This will now inhale the fumes from the crankcase. Occasionally, blow-by gases may exceed the capacity of the PCV valve and will escape from the oil filler tube cap/breather. Replace this cap with a style that has a pipe on the side and run a hose to a pipe installed in the back of  the air cleaner.  

Miscellaneous:

1956 Dodge Service Manual: D500 Hemi is not included, but the basic assembly instructions and tolerances for the 315 Poly are the same. Except the Hemi uses a harmonic balancer at the front of the crank, which is not used on the Poly. Hemi head details can be found in the 55 Dodge Service Manual. Any GOOD engine building shop should have no trouble with this engine. The 55 - 58 Mopar Parts book and 56 Dodge Tech Bulletins have some limited D500 information.

Valve lash adjustment procedure (56 D500 only, all other Dodge Hemi/Poly V8s are hydraulic):

   ref. Mopar Performance "Engines" book, P/N 4452790, page 141:

  Firing order: 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.  Rotation: clockwise when viewed from the front.

  Start by finding TDC on cylinder # 1 during its compression stroke (both valves closed and time for the spark).

  For each succeeding cylinder, rotate the engine 1/4 turn and use a long blunt probe (large screwdriver that will

   not fall in) to find TDC. For the valves being adjusted, the cam lobe peak will be 180 degrees opposite the lifter.

                Cylinder #                    adjust                      adjust                              Cylinder layout

                at TDC                        intake                      exhaust

                     1                                2                               8                                    passenger side

                      8                                1                               4                         front      2 4 6 8

                     4                                8                               3                                      1 3 5 7     rear

                     3                                4                               6                                    driver side

                     6                                3                               5

                     5                                6                               7

                      7                                5                               2

                      2                                7                               1

Cooling, if you have overheating problems:

   Thermostat: modern versions have a pop-up valve that is more restrictive than the old butterfly (like a carb

   throttle) style valves.

 *        Try to find a Dole # DV20 (160 deg.), DV-2H (180 deg.), or equivalent butterfly style at a swap meet.

*  Fan: the standard Dodge fan has 4 blades. Many Chryslers and DeSotos in the mid-50's used 6 blade fans,

              which will fit. A 60's or 70's clutch drive fan may fit. Paint it with POR 15 to prevent sandblasting during

             use, or even better: powder coat.

Exhaust manifold heat riser (is probably stuck now, or will be someday soon!):

*    1.  The simplest solution is to remove it. I used a chisel to cut the valve from the shaft. Or the entire heat riser

           block assembly could be left off if a stock appearance is not important. This is OK if the car will not be

            used in winter driving. It will never stick again!

     2.  If it still works freely, clean it and remove the anti-rattle spring. This gives the shaft more freedom to rattle

          around and rub off accumulated carbon and rust. Check periodically to verify it is still free to move.

     3.  The hardest solution is to rebuild it. I have heard that kits may be available. Try Andy Burnbaum, or maybe

          NAPA.

     4.  If the valve is frozen and the counterweight is forced to rotate it open, the counterweight may only be

          slipping on a frozen shaft, leaving the valve still closed. It is best to inspect with the exhaust pipe off.

Exhaust system:

     1.  Poly 315 engines originally had 2 inch diameter single or optional dual exhaust systems.

     2.  D500s had 2 1/4 inch dual exhaust. Low restriction mufflers are recommended.

      3.  Modified D500s could benefit from 2 1/2 inch duals and a balance tube between the 2 exhaust pipes placed

           ahead of the mufflers.

Clubs:

*  WPC Club                            Largest club for all Chrysler cars. Free "For Sale" and "Wanted" adds for members.

    P.O. Box 3504                      www.chryslerclub.org/

   Kalamazoo, MI 49003-3504

   Early Hemi Club                    Dedicated to early Hemi engines. Not very active at the moment.

   19311 Laurel Run Road

   Nelsonville, OH 45764

Internet:

The ForwardLook E-Mail List:   L-Forwardlook@lists.PSU.EDU      Dedicated to trading info on 55-61 Mopars.

      to subscribe: send e-mail message to:  Listserv@lists.PSU.EDU       For sale and want ads.

      to view info:  http://www.forwardlook.net/

The Infamous Hemi:     www://ScoTech.com/hemi/                              Info and want ads.

Chrysler Early Hemi:    www.concentric.net/~ftomjack;ack/hemi/hemipage.shtml/     Info and want ads.

Early Hemi Page:         www.ticnet.com/hemi/start.htm                 Info.

Mopar Web Ring:       http://surf.to/moparwebring              Listing of hundreds of Mopar related web sites.

Literature:  

Books:

“The Complete Chrysler HEMI Engine Manual", by Ron Ceridono. From Hot Rod Library, 800-513-8133, $22.95. History, identification, rebuild information, lots of photos, parts sources, data tables, conversions and updates, 194 pages. Very informative. Recommended.

Alternate Parts Sources:

Most of the above referenced sources offer fresh, new parts made with modern materials, through normal factory automotive parts outlet channels at normal retail prices. Many of the Alternate Sources below have extensive inventories of old NOS parts which are no longer available through regular channels at regular prices (i.e. the lower the supply, the higher the price), or new parts they buy through regular retail channels at regular retail prices and then add a profit for resale to you. I prefer trying to find new parts through normal retail channels first. A listing here is not an endorsement.

General Parts:      

Egge Machine (310-945-3419 or 800-866-3443). Engine overhaul parts.

Kanter Auto Products (800-526-1096). Have a complete engine overhaul kit, quality and specs unknown.

          Inquire. Also available as separate components.

Northwestern Auto Supply, (616-241-5611). Engine overhaul parts, all makes.

Restoration Parts (some of these suppliers may be difficult to deal with):

Andy Bernbaum, (617-244-1118).   NOS parts.

Arizona Parts, Martin Kolner (800-328-8766). NOS parts.

Gary Goers, (406-752-6249), 37 Amdahl Ln, Kalispell Mt 59901.  www.garygoers.com     Reproduction parts.

      Very good reputation. E-mail: goers@GARYGOERS.com

George Taylor (713-472-5886). E-mail: gtmp@EVI.bet    NOS parts. Very good reputation.

John McMahon (714-443-1062). NOS parts.

Len Dawson,15541 Yokeko, Anacortes, WA 98221. NOS parts.

Mitchell Motor Parts, (614-875-4919). NOS parts.

Early Hemi:

Automotive Innovations Unlimited, AIU, (714-639-7625 or 800-489-9923). Specialize in early Hemi:

          complete engine kits for Chrysler, DeSoto, and Dodge. They even have rebuilt Chrysler long blocks

          for sale.

Hot Heads, (602-671-1222). Specialize in early Hemi. Engine parts.   www.hotheads.com

Quality Engineered Components, (888-HEMI-PARTS). Specialize in early Hemi parts.

Sterling Engine Service, (209-267-5081). Specialize in early Hemi parts.

Chris Neilson Cams (801) 451- 7745    New reproduction cams for early Mopar Hemi / Poly,

                                                                & other engine parts, bearings, pistons, etc.

Good luck! Let me know how your project turns out. Also, let me know of any alternate parts sources you find, or any above that have changed, so I can maintain an accurate list. This document is subject to continuous improvement. If you have an old revision date, request the current revision. Call if you have any questions.

                         Dave Homstad

                              56 Dodge D500