Install a 727 TorqueFlight (gear ratios 2.45, 1.45, 1.00) into a 1956 Dodge originally equipped with a PowerFlight (gear ratios 1.72, 1.00). Convert to 3 speed pushbutton cluster. Since rear axel brakes have no emergency cables, a transmission mounted emergency brake drum is required. Other 1956 to 1961 Mopars should be very similar. The main advantages of this conversion are an increase in reliability due to the newer design, a 42% increase in first gear torque applied to the rear wheels, and higher torque converter stall speed for more HP at the start. Imagine changing a 68 Road Runner from an axel ratio of 2.5 to 3.55!

A. Transmission core: 1962 A727 (any 1962 to 1965 A727 TorqueFlight will work) for an A series small block (318).

1. A later mechanical shifted (1966 and up) A727 could be used. Imperial Services has available a kit to allow the original pushbutton shifter to be used to shift the newer transmission. This requires replacing the detent spring in the valve body with a softer one so the light force of the cable can make the shifts.

B. Tail section: 1962 Chrysler (B727, from a B series big block engine: 361, 383, 413, 426) with brake drum on the end, to be installed on A727 case. This is the only 727 TorqueFlight available with an emergency brake drum.

1. If a transmission without a brake drum is used, there will be no emergency brake. There are 2 alternatives: swap the rear end for a newer 8 3/4 with emergency brakes. Or convert the original rear end brake assemblies to later designs that have built in emergency brakes.

2. The transmission emergency brake drum also does double duty as a parking function. There are 2 alternatives: use a rear end with a built-in emergency brake. Or use the (62 - 65) cable actuated park function in the tail section. A 62 - 64 factory dash mounted park lever might be mounted to actuate the cable. Only concern is in the factory pushbutton set up, the trans could not be shifted out of neutral until the park lever was disengaged. Since there is no link in a 56, you could put the trans in Drive and apply power with Park still engaged.

	Item	Applicable years
1	4 clutch 3rd gear drum	HP 68 - 70
2	Kick-down servo-piston: solid (modified original: removed cushion springs) + 2 return springs	HP 68 - 70
3	4 clutch drum/front pump	71+
4	Red lined solid band + 3.8 or 4.2 lever (was 2.9)
5	Input shaft 24 spline	67+
6	Torque converter, stall 2500 rpm, 24 spline	67+
7	Borg-Warner Hi Performance clutches, desprung 2 and direct, ridged band, input shaft end play 0.045, forward clutch clearance .025 - .030, direct clutch clearance.090, 2nd band 2 turns @ 50 in-lbs, reverse band 2 turns @ 72 in- lbs.,	Per Chuck Lofgren, 763-753-7573.

	Other good ideas not used
A	4 pinion plantetary (sun gear, planetary, annulus)	HP 68 - 70
B	High clutch drum wider bushing	71+
C	Front planetary (gear pressure angle change 76+ not interchangeable)	67 - 75
D	S/S Hi Performance 5.0 lever, Alto Hi Perf race clutches, Kolene heat treated steels, desprung 2 and direct, ridged band, input shaft .056, forward clutch .044, direct clutch .090, 2nd band 1 ½ turns @ 50, reverse band 3 turns @ 72,	Per C&S Racing, Steve, 619-460-5024

D. All internals back to and including the reverse drum and band can be from 67 - 75. From there back need 62 output shaft and tail section. Use 62 - 65 cable shift valve body.

E. Torque converter: brazed impeller & turbine, triple Torrington (needle?) bearings, 2400 rpm stall, zero balance, 67+ style, 11 inch, modified for increased torque multiplication, 24 spline, 10 inch bolt pattern. (From Dynamic TCT, 2500 stall with big motor, 2200 - 2400 with small block). Any common standard or high performance TC for any 1967 or newer will work when the input shaft is swapped to a 24 spline version. TCs for the older shaft are hard to find, especially in HP.

F. Shift kit: medium firmness, crisp (TransGo, B & M). Chuck modified the valve body based on the B&M style, with his own detail mods based on experience.

H. Wide open throttle up shift: 4800 - 5000 rpm. Used stock 383/440 Magnum governor, ~ 4800 - 5200 rpm. It shifts right at 5000!

J. Oil pan: deeper, steel, chromed, + 2 quarts, drain plug. Mopar Performance P/N P4120161. Filter extender P/N FE2000 from http://www.arengineering.com

1. TrWaters: Allows the use of stock torque converter cover shields. This appears to be the best option in my opinion.

10. There are some adapters to use GM Chevy pattern transmissions, including overdrive designs. Also, the Mopar 518 or 618 Overdrive will fit a 727 style adapter. There is even one company that modifies the bell housing of a Ford AOD overdrive to fit a small block Mopar (or early Hemi with adapter for 727).

L. For drag racing: start in 2nd gear button or Drive. 1st gear button applies extra band that could cause applied overlap with 2nd during a fast manually operated pushbutton shift.

M. Brake drum assembly: all of the 1956 parking brake parts will transfer to the 727, including backing plate, cable, and all internal parts, except the drum, due to a different spline count.

N. If you are using an un-rebuilt tranny in good condition, I highly recommend replacing the external seals to avoid leaks. External seal kits for any tranny can be obtained from:

Radiator: add tranny cooler in bottom. 65 B body 318 V8 lines fit. At this time I am running only an air cooler.

1. Remove the cover between the buttons. Pull off buttons. There are 2 nuts (3/8) holding the cluster to the housing, visible between the button push rods. Some masking tape around the socket end will help hold the nuts from dropping off. Remove these and the entire cluster can be moved back by pulling on the cable, and then dropped down for easy access. Leave the button illumination light bulb in-place in the housing. I recommend replacing the old bulb (should be a size 57) at this time with a fresh one.

2. Remove the tiny spring clip holding the cable end and disconnect the cable end. Replace the clip so it doesn't get lost. Unbolt the cable housing end brace from the button cluster and remove cluster.

3. The cable end brace is very difficult to remove from the cable end because it is crimped in place. It will probably have to be removed to extract the cable through the firewall. I was successful using a crescent wrench to hold the bracket and a pliers to grasp one fork to pry it open a little. The end brace does not need to be removed if the cable is to be left in place for an early TF.

4. I found that the original PF button housing on the dash had 2 unused threaded ears at the bottom of the front opening. These may have been intended to be used for holding the cover plate, but never were. These lower ears will interfere with the “1” and "2" buttons. Cut off these lower ears, being careful to leave the rim of the opening for mounting the cover and not to mar the outer paint finish. I used a hacksaw blade held with a pliers to cut the soft pot metal.

6. Interesting point: I found the PF (N, R, D, L) buttons to be the same shape as the Truck TF (N, R, D, 1) buttons, so all 4 can be reused if desired. The PF buttons have a slight green tint to match the other instruments. Only the “2” button needs to be added. Unfortunately, the “2” button has no tint.

1. Follow the shop manual procedure for removing the old transmission. I prefer to unbolt the converter from the crank and remove while on transmission/bell housing, leaving the factory adapter in place on the engine. Before removing the brake cable, set the brake to hold the brake drum and loosen the large output shaft /drum nut. The 1 inch diameter anchor pin holding the brake drum assembly will probably not come out (as described in the Shop Manual) due to corrosion, so disconnect the cable to remove the trans. Disassemble the entire brake drum assembly and remove the clip holding the backing plate to the anchor pin. Remove backing plate.

2. Important Notice: The factory adapter plate is held to the engine with one bolt near the RH alignment pin. This bolt cannot be accessed until the transmission and bell-housing have been removed first.

1. The back up (BU) light switch on a 56 PF is located on the transmission. It is not mounted on the trans on a 727 TF. Most (but not all) TF pushbutton clusters have a built-in back up light switch on the side of the pushbutton cluster. I recommend a small wire clamp, fastened to the lower rear cluster assembly bolt, to hold the wires from moving and disturbing their solder joints at the switch. There are 2 options:

a. Locate the wires to the original BU switch on the Trans and connect them to the wires on the switch on the PB cluster. Extension wires will be needed.

b. Locate the feed location to the wires before they go down to the trans and wire directly to the PB cluster switch and feed to the lights. See the Shop Manual schematic.

c. If the push button cluster does not have a BU switch, then it is necessary to use a manual switch (preferably lighted when “on”) and wire per “a” or “b” above.

2. Transmission cross member support: no changes required. The Imperial Services mount designed to fit the 727 and the old cross member works fine, except the hole locations are off 1/4 inch to the rear because of the thicker adapter plate. Install the mount on the tranny, install cross member, lower tranny onto cross member. Align holes equally left and right to align transmission on cross member. Just drill up through the existing cross member holes to make matching holes in the mount. Bolt in place. (If using a 56 - 61 cast iron TF, you will need to relocate the frame mounts 3 inches rearward.)

3. Radiator: add a transmission oil cooler. Pre-bent repro lines for a 1965 Coronet 318 are almost a perfect match-up to the tranny, around the starter and engine oil pan, and right length to the radiator. Install both lines and support clamps, and mark on the radiator where the cooler fittings should be placed to line up. There is a small 1965 factory line clip that attaches to the lower starter bolt, and find a suitable clamp to attach under an engine oil pan bolt to support the lines near the front of the engine.

4. Drive shaft needs to be shortened. I measured an overall “flange to flange” length of 56.5 inches, 5 inches shorter than the original PF. Have the drive shaft checked for straightness and balance also. I wanted to get rid of the front Ball & Trunion joint and replace it with a modern U-joint. Since my old shaft is 3.25 dia., there is no conversion hardware available, so I got a new 3.0 dia. drive shaft with new rear U-joint, and a front flange conversion with slip yoke.

5. Torque converter cover plate. My galvanized steel cover came from a 62 318 engine. It needed to be modified so the cover top edge did not interfere with the engine to trans dowel pins. Just cut off the two 1/2 inch high tabs that interfere where the old alignment pins are. Also, the area where the starter fits must be modified to remove the area under the starter (not required with the TR Waters adapter). Mount the cover on the front of the adapter and mark a line on the trans side of the cover along the edge of the adapter. Cut on this line and use the removed section under the starter as a shim and seal.

6. Kick-down rod: at first I thought about modifying the original rod to be shorter, but in looking for a spare, I found that my spare gas pedal to linkage pivot rod is perfect without modification. It has a ball swivel at both ends and is threaded for adjustment. Adjust so when the throttle is wide open, the trans lever arm just reaches the end of its travel, but not hard against the stop.

7. The distance from the centerline of the input/output shafts of the transmission to the mounting surface on the tail housing for the transmission mount is different between the PF and 62 727 TF. In order to keep the angle to the drive shaft and rear pinion the same, a .75 inch spacer is recommended between the mount and the crossmember.

8. Starter: the old starter will no longer fit. Any suitable 1962 and newer V8 starter should fit. Options include Mopar Performance P/N 4379144 or Mopar lightweight P/N P5249644AB, or the lightweight Nippondenso. If using the original wiring, the original solenoid activation (by ignition key in "Start" mode) is done by a relay on the inner fender and only one heavy wire goes to the starter. Newer starters have a large battery terminal and a smaller solenoid terminal. Connect the 2 terminals on the starter together with a jumper so when the fender starter relay sends current to the starter's battery terminal, the solenoid terminal will also be activated to turn the starter on. I used a solid copper strip fabricated from a piece of copper plumbing pipe.

9. Dip stick tube: a 727 tube will be required, since the mounting style is totally different at the transmission end. A 1970 small block style fit mine and cleared the firewall and engine. There are many other varieties that may fit.

D. Bolts (I recommend grade 8 for all applications). My adapter is 1.0 inch thick, compared to the old factory plate that is .75 thick. This requires some longer bolts.

1. Flex plate mounting to crankshaft, 8 studs on the old TC need to be replaced with 8 bolts. Can reuse the old nuts, which are longer, and original star washers.

2. Lock washers: all bolts (except torque converter to flex plate bolts) use a split style lock washer.

Location	Original	New for Adapter	Qty
Torque Converter to Crank (old) Flex plate & hub to Crank (new)	7/16-20 UNF x .800 stud & nuts/star washer	7/16-20 UNF x 1 ¼ bolt, & original nuts/star washer	8
Torque converter to flex plate	none	Std TF converter bolt	4
Adapter to engine (counter bored hole), near the RH alignment pin	See paragraph II B2 above	Bolt supplied with kit, socket head	1
Engine to Trans (+ adapter)	7/16 NC x 1 3/8	7/16 NC x 1 ½	1
Trans (+ adapter) to engine (long)	3/8 NC x 2 ¾	None, no hole in trans case	1
Trans (+ adapter) to engine	3/8 NC x 2.0	3/8 NC x 2 ½	4
Torque converter cover	None	7/16 NC x 1 3/4	2
Torque converter drain plug cover	None	¼ - 20 NC x 1 ½	3
Starter stud & nut		Original TF	1
Starter bolt		Original TF	1

2. The backing plate is the same, except for the cable strain relief length. To re-use the original 56 brake cable, use the 56 backing plate.

3. The 727 drum is the same, except for the spline count (23 teeth) ) (vs. 10 teeth on the PowerFlight drum) on the output shaft. It is necessary to use the 62 drum. (Other later cast iron TorqueFlight or late PF drums may also have the same spline count, but this needs to be verified.) Broken studs may be replaced with studs from the PF drum. If the drum friction surface needs to be re-surfaced, a good full service specialty brake shop can turn the drum. I sand blasted and painted the outside with black POR-15. Adjust the brake cable, then set the brake to hold the brake drum and tighten the large output shaft /drum nut.

4. If you search a little, you can find new brake shoes for the emergency brake from some auto parts or brake specialty parts houses. P/N 2240637 may still be available from your Dodge dealer. You can also have your old shoes re-lined.

1. Shift cable: The original PowerFlight cable was 53 inches tip to tip. This is the same for all 1956 Dodge and Plymouth models. The upper end is the same for all pushbutton transmissions from 56 to 64, but the lower end is different for a 727 on both the cable end and adjuster mechanisms. I used a 1962 727 TorqueFlight, so the lower end of the new cable must fit this. The TF cable input location is about an inch farther forward on the case than the PF, and the TF adapter adds about .25 inch, so I think a length of 52.5 for the new cable, tip to tip, should be perfect.

2. Speedometer cable: Unfortunately, the PF speedo cable connection and the 727 TF connection are totally different. The old speedo cable measures 68 inches on the housing. (Plymouths are different) The 62 727 TF speedo cable connection is about 2 inches forward compared to the PF cable position. There is some slack with the old cable, so any cable housing length between 66 and 67 inches should be fine. Even a few inches shorter would fit fine.

3. Hand brake cable: The original emergency brake cable to the transmission drum brake will reach an extra 5 inches. There is barely enough slack. There is a cable clamp on top of the body frame that must be loosened to slide the cable housing back. The original 56 PowerFlight brake backing plate must be re-used.

4. New shift and speedo cables can be made to order, any length, by Imperial Services. 989-652-6309

3. Fit torque converter to trans. Install transmission, mount and crossmember. Install brake drum assembly, adjust shoes, adjust cable, and torque shaft nut. Install dipstick tube.

7. Install cooling lines. Mark locations on radiator for location of heat exchanger fittings. Remove radiator for modifications. Alternate: use an air cooler.

9. Install shift and speedo cables. Adjustment can be tricky, so consult the shop manual.

13. Check speedo accuracy to determine if speedo cable drive gear needs changing.

3. Cut off more of lower boss again to clear factory reproduction cooling lines.

4. Ground off more of lower boss material to be flush with tranny case to clear factory cooling lines. Conclusion: boss is

5. Drilled thru holes for 3 small ¼ - 20 bolts for torque converter cover. No provision for TC cover!

7. Third 3/8 hole for TC cover couldn't be drilled because half the hole would be exposed due to dip in adapter plate

8. NO instructions or new parts, such as bolts for flex plate/hub. No special flex plate or info on where to buy one.

9. The area of the TC cover that goes under the starter had to be cut off and placed separately under the starter.

10. Adapter follows the bell housing contour well in some areas, and not even close in others.

11. I think the TrWaters design is the most thought out adapter. No excess material to cut off, holes to drill, or converter

cover to modify around the starter. It appears that all adapters are not created equal!

12. At this time, I can not recommend the Rally Enterprises adapter to my friends and acquaintances who wish to know

Item	Description	Cost	Supplier
1	Used 1962 727A tranny	100	Junk yard
2	Used 62 Chrysler 727B tranny/brake drum	50	Junk yard
3	Rebuild/Modify tranny	800	Chuck Lofgren, 763-753-7573
4	New torque converter, 2200 rpm stall	400	Dynamic
5	New shift cable	150	Imperial Services 989-652-6309
6	New speedo cable	50	Imperial Services 989-652-6309
7	New tranny mount	65	Imperial Services 989-652-6309
8	Adapter plate and hub	200	Rally Enterprises (not recommended)
9	Flex plate, B&M # 10231	75	Summit Racing
10	Misc. bolts	30	Hardware store
11	1965 cooling lines, Dodge Coronet, repro	35	Harden's, 800-633-4690, www.hardensmew.com
12	New starter for 727	160	Summit Racing, Mopar, or Auto parts store.
13	New drive shaft, front slip yoke, U-joints	210	OVC Industries, 515-282-9996
14	Modify radiator, add cooler	tbd
15	3 speed button cluster	25	57 - 59 Dodge PU truck
16	Transmission jack rental	20	Equipment rental store.
17	Transmission fluid	20	Auto parts store
18	Brake shoes, Emergency Brake, new	5	swap meet
19	Speedometer gear	tbd	62 - 65 TF
	Total	2390

J. Speedo cable gear: 17 teeth, pale yellow-orange, marked D-177, max gear diameter .880. Only 1962 - 65 TF gears will work. Later gears are a different diameter. Based on speedometer error, I need a 22 tooth gear for correct speedometer calibration. Gears were originally made with 16 - 21 teeth. There are also ratio adapters available.

K. For a good souce of 62 - 65 727 TorqueFlite information or rebuild services, try:

1. Primary one was the planetary gearsets, usually the rear one. Prior to 1965 Chrysler fastened the pinion axle shafts with a lock-pin that only partially engaged the shaft; later units had lock-pins that went all the way through the axle shaft. Quite common to find the lock-pin(s) broken on the early TF2s rear planet and the shafts slid backwards and rubbing on the thrust face of the rear annulus gear.

2. Valve bodies prior to 1968 had 2 areas where the upper casting had a tendency to crack; upper forward corner was one and internally between the KD valve and regulator valve was the second on an L-shaped corner.

3. The 1962-early 1967 19-spline input shaft sealing rings tended to cut grooves in the I.D. of the reaction shaft support; eventual loss of all forward gears was the result.

4. Also the 19-spline converters would on occasion separate the input turbine from the input turbine hub (no gears !); problem had to do with input turbine only having 6 rivets securing it to the hub, later ones using 12 rivets.

5. Pre-1968 front clutch release springs were a taller, skinnier design and they could on occasion fall over and/or break and cause grief.

6. All of these problems can be addressed by upgrading components to 1968 or newer parts (valve body is a bit complex but can be done). (Info courtesy of Pat Blais Transmissions).