I hear a lot about clean-up. Not a problem. I use a 10% solution of water soluble oil in water (Moose Milk) and it is cheaper than old Hoppes. Clean up for me is: 1. remove cylinder 2. remove nipples and soak in Moose Milk. 3. wipe Moose milk over the cylinder and sprinkle some in each chamber 4. run several wet patches through the bore 5. wipe the frame down with wet patches 6. rinse the cylinder 7. wipe all parts dry 8. reassemble

Every 2-3 sessions, I will remove the trigger assembly and clean it real well. I will do the same if I will not be shooting for a while. I find cleaning the percussion revolvers easier than my Rossi rifle. The parts are easier to get to.


The Ruger Old Army is a fine choice for a modern style revolver. The stainless steel model would be a good choice from the clean-up stand point. One point I learned the hard way about the Old Army is that although it is stainless steel it will still rust under some conditions. We started shooting with Pyrodex. The first time out only the barrel and cylinder was cleaned. About a week later I noticed rust coming from the hammer slot. The whole works was covered with rust. It cleaned up OK. A call to Ruger confirmed the fact that the revolvers are made of 400 series stainless and will rust. The use of C&H black powder solved the problem. I only clean the works once a year and have not had any rust. A friend cleans his stainless Old Army by removing the grips and putting the revolver in the dishwasher. It works great. He has a very tolerant wife.


Maintenance - best I've found is a liquid called old #13 (canít recall maker) they also make bore butter. Also needed are LOTS of patches , pipe cleaners, Q-tips, and a nipple pick (small dia. stiff wire)


Q1. Can you really take the grips off and clean it in the dishwasher? If so, how much of it do you take apart and separate into components? (this would be the only benefit of being in charge of doing dishes in one's household)

A1. Do not get any thing wet that you cannot completely dry. Remove the nipples and soak the nipples and cylinder then wipe all surfaces completely dry. I would run wet patches through the barrel and wipe down the frame, then dry the barrel and frame. I would not put the frame in a dishwasher unless it was completely stripped of every part and screw and if I knew how to wipe every surface dry.

A1. I use prolix to clean all my guns, after a few uses, it forms a bond and makes things much easier to clean.

A1. I clean up with windex and blow out the action with brake cleaner and then re-oil the whole gun.


Q2. Knowing that it needs to be cleaned every day after shooting, what do you do for a two day shoot when facilities are not readily available?

A2. Adapt and over come. Always bring cleaning supplies. I have been at three multiple day shoots at different places, they all would allow cleaning somewhere on the grounds. I have cleaned in a hotel shower stall and washed the mess down the drain.

A2. Rinse thoroughly in boiling water, dry and then lube it with a spray lube (Prolix)

A2. Clean it anyway! The main components disassemble very easily (i.e. cylinder pin, rammer and cylinder, and the the nipples come out with your trusty nipple wrench (don't leave home without it!) Scrub everything as well as you can with what you have, dry and OIL WELL. (I only disassemble further once or twice a year for a more thorough cleaning (but I live in an arid climate, and maybe get away with more.) Further pointers: a) old toothbrushes are a must in my cleaning kit: they are wonderful for scrubbing the cleaner-softened fouling out of places like the shoulders of the nipples, the nipple recesses on the cylinder, the hard to get at area where the barrel is screwed into the frame, etc. And I defy you to damage the finish with a nylon toothbrush! b) Oiling well, inside and out, after cleaning is the secret to keeping rust and corrosion at bay. HOWEVER, you must ensure that your chambers and nipples are clear of oil before loading, or you are sure to get misfires or hangfires. If your chambers are really sopping you may have to dry them out, but the main thing is to cap all nipples and snap them off (in a safe location), and maybe repeat, before loading.

A2. For "field cleaning" I use the #13 above followed by "Breakfree"


Windex w/ammonia with a gallon of water and using it to spray down at the range for preliminary neutralizing of the corrosive elements.


Give it a little squirt of Breakfree once in a while to blow away any crud which is building up.


Various cleaners, soap and hot water cannot be beat; Birchwood/Casey makes a very good blackpowder cleaning solution, everyone has their favorite.

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