LUBE

Q1. Does "greasing the chambers" mean just using a "wonder wad" or the like, or do you actually grease over the ball also?

A1. Wonder Wads obviate the need for grease. They are expensive. Grease (Crisco or other) over the ball is fine if the cost of Wonder Wads is too high.

A1. Grease over the ball serves two purposes, seals the chamber against chainfire, and keeps the fouling in the muzzle soft so that it doesn't lose accuracy. Wonder wads help, but the grease is more effective.

A1. If you use wonder wads you would reduce the powder charge and not have to grease the chambers. I don't use them but use Bore Butter on top and can shoot 6 stages with no problems.

A1. Ideally both, but Wonder Wad or grease alone should suffice to prevent chain firing. The grease will help keep the fouling soft, especially if you are doing a lot of shooting without cleaning, but it can get a bit messy (carry a rag or such for wiping your hands: the expression "butterfingers" takes on a whole new, sinister meaning when you are trying to hold onto a loaded revolver!)

A1. I have neither heard of nor experienced any problems using only "Wonder Wads" w/out grease. For the record, I had a friend who occasionally used Chapstick to lube his cylinders, but seems like that would get expensive.

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During a match, to keep fouling softer and to keep the revolver shooting longer between cleanings (read- toothbrush the tight spots, wipe it off and a spot of bore butter on the cylinder pin) I put bore butter or something similar over the balls.

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Well I have tried Crisco (Ol' Doc Peabody said my cholesterol was too high and I had to switch) and that "Spit Ball". along with "Bore Butter" and jest about everything else and I couldn't see any differences...So even against the good (?) doctor's suggestion I'm back at the Crisco...

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I used Crisco myself for the first year or two that I played with them. It doesn't work quite as well as Bore Butter for keeping fouling soft, but it stops the chainfire problem. What I didn't like about it was guns left loaded with Crisco over the balls would chronograph 100- 125 fps lower after three weeks than guns with only wonder wads. Apparently, some of the moisture from the crisco was seeping into the powder. I've never tried this experiment with Bore Butter.

That sort of thing mattered to me because I occasionally used one of my 1858s has a home defense gun, and I carried one in the woods during black powder deer season and other times when the mood struck me.

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Have shot many thousands of rounds with Crisco, works fine, but on a hot day can sure make a mess in a holster, can also go rancid which is OK as long as you are down wind. Bore Butter, Wonder Lube, and S.P.G are great. To cut expenses I punch and lube felt wads from old hats using a home made concoction recommended sometime back by Mr. Wolf. Easily made, and appears to be very close to S.P.G. simply mix equal amounts of bee's wax with a good quality olive oil. When the two are well mixed, (not too hot) submerge the old hat material and let it absorb all it can then hang up to cool or solidify. Once cooled punch out your wads with the proper sized punch for the caliber you intend to load. I generally use the end grain of an aspen log to punch on. Wonderwads a wonderful, but a bit expensive if you shoot much. I have also used waterpump grease, Rig, and Johnsons Paste wax once in a pinch. Still have not experienced a chain fire, and don't intend to if I can help it. Didn't mean to be so long winded, just hope this may help you.

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I shoot cap-n-ball and the best way is to use a wonder wad. Grease makes a stinkin mess. I have also used leather wads soaked in peanut oil. The leather wads were cut from scrap leather to the correct size and worked just as good as the wonder wad.

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The Wonder Wad for it works great; and I also grease up the balls before loading and spread a little over them when seated. It seems to enable me to shoot many cylinders full before problems. I go home after three hours of loading and shooting and nary a problem. Been using oil on the cylinder pin without any binding problems, but I guess most fellas use grease on it.

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I've bought a product called Chevron Food Machine Grease (high melting point, non hazardous, even if ya lick your fingers) from Dangerous Dave Cumberland at Old Western Scrounger in California. Works real good at keeping powder fouling soft, doesn't blow out too easily from C&B chamber mouths, and even works good for a patched round ball lube. Cleans up with soap & water, but hot sun & hot chambers won't melt it to run down inside your holster. Easy to apply with a cake decorator grease gun, or even a fingertip from a tub of the stuff. Too soft for a bullet lube for cartridges, tho... Contact Dangerous Dave Cumberland, AKA the Old Western Scrounger, in Montague, CA, in the very shadow of Mt. Shasta at: ww.snowcrest.net/oldwest/index.html If my memory is correct, he has an 800 phone number of 800-UPS-AMMO.

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