Here is a picture of the bike table I built to make maintenance easier. The table is wide enough for me to actually ride the bike to the top and park it until I can tie it down or jack it up. I made both ends of the table removable so it is easy to drop both wheels while the frame is supported from the center. Since making the pictures I have added a 2x4 to the center section to provide a step about halfway down the side of the table. I saved a couple of the triangular pieces I cut off of the ramp supports to use as wheel chocks. I fixed the latches so I could connect the two end sections and place the center section on top of them in order to reduce the amount of space needed to store the table when I'm not using it. The ramp will stand against the wall when not needed and could also be used with a pickup truck by adding hooks to each side and using tie downs to secure it to the truck's bumper. I plan to paint the table to protect the wood and add castors so I can roll the whole thing around the shop. E-mail me with questions.

I took the idea for the table from the Oct. '98 issue of "Hot Bike".  They called for a table about half as wide but I knew I wouldn't be able to push the dresser to the top so I built it wider so I could ride up.  I didn't really use the plans, I just kind of made it up as I  went along. I have put together a list of materials and  a description of the construction.

The shopping list consists of:
2-sheets 3/4" plywood;
9-2x6x8' construction pine;
16-2x4x8' construction pine;
3-4x4x8' posts;
5 lb. 3" galvanized deck screws;
4 lockable latches;
4 big screw hooks;
6-3" lag bolts (to attach the cleat the ramp sits on);
5-1/4"x6" bolts with nuts (pins to make the ramp removable).

First cut the 4x4s into 23 7/8" pieces to allow for the material turned into sawdust.  Cut the 2x6s & 2x4s so you have 4 pieces 2 1/2' long, 2 pieces 3' long and 14 pieces 45" long in each size.

Assemble the pieces to make 7 legs each made up of 2 4x4s sandwiched between the 45" long 2x6s & 2x4s, these should be
23 7/8" high & 45" wide.

This is a view from the end of a leg:

Connect 2 legs with 2 of the 2 1/2' long pieces in each 2x4 &2x6; this should give you a table frame that measures 2 1/2' long, 4' wide, and 23 7/8" high.
 

This is a view of a table section from the top without the table surface in place:

Use the other 2 1/2' long pieces to make another just like it then use the 3' pieces to connect the end legs of the center section and center the remaining leg between the ends.  Mark and cut 2 2 1/2' sections from the length of the plywood sheet and screw the three pieces to the top (2x6 side) of the correct size table frame.  Slide all sections together and attach the latches to hold the table together.

Cut one of the remaining 2x4s in half and attach it with lag bolts to the back of the table about 2" below the top, this is the support for the ramp. Drill 5 holes along the cleat and insert bolts so that they stick up providing a way for the ramp to sit on the cleat without sliding off, space the center holes about 5-6" apart to provide additional support for the bike going up the ramp.

This is a view of the ramp detail from the side:

Cut 5 2x4s so that they fit over the cleat at the rear of the table and provide a smooth transition from the floor to the ramp; drill holes in the supports so they slip over the bolts in the cleat. Attach the other sheet of plywood to the top of the ramp
supports. Put the remaining 1/2 of 2x4 at the front of the table to make a wheel stop to keep you from running off the end.  Cut
two more 3' sections from a 2x4 and attach them half way up the side of the center section as a step.  Attach hooks to the center section to tie the bike to and handles to the ramp to make it more portable.

The ramp can also be used to load the bike in a pickup if it is secured to the rear bumper of the truck. Save the scraps to use as wheel chocks and and to support the scoot while the wheels are off.  Ride up, drop the kick stand, and climb off; tie the bike down level and you are ready to go to work.

Just remember that when you back down the ramp the front wheel will slip if you lock the brake. Use your legs to keep the bike level, don' turn the forks and just let the bike roll straight back until you are on level ground.

The hardest part was the ramp connection to the table; I just used lag bolts to secure a cleat to the rear of the table and cut a birds mouth type cut in  5 2x4s so they would sit edgewise over the cleat and cut the other end so the top edge was flush with the floor. It took a little trial & error but I did it without too much trouble.  The only tools I used were a circular saw, framing
square, drill/screwdriver, hammer, and a chalk line for marking the plywood cuts.

Once the table is complete you can get a cheap scissors jack from the parts store or junkyard to lift the wheels off of the table and use the remaining pieces of wood to support the bike.  Unlatch the ends, slide them out, drop the wheels, and wrench.

If you decide to build this do so at your own risk.  I am not responsible for your carpentry skills, damage caused by this table breaking or you riding off the side of the ramp.  Test it with a friends bike <g> or the lawnmower before you put your baby on it just to make sure it will hold up.

Let me know how it comes out
fttpaulie@charter.net