TGN V-brakes !!!

In the recent months, we've seen a ton of cool, new stuff come from the guys at Team Gonads. Today, we'll take a look at their latest offering, the Team Gonads V-brakes. These brakes were originally designed for the Team Gonads Goped Gyro, but are now available separately.

With freestyle riders doing more complex tricks and racers going faster than ever with G230RC motors, many people are now finding that their stock brakes just don't cut it. If you're one of those people, the TGN V-brakes are for you. To put it simply, these brakes rock! If the guys at Patmont Motor Werks are listening, they should be calling Mark Hull to order a batch of these awesome brakes for the next run of Super Peds.

The brake/fork combo is a bolt on replacement for the factory parts and can be installed in less than an hour using simple hand tools. For addt'l info, see the step-by-step instructions and photos below (click on pics to view full size)

The V-brake setup includes a custom made "bothy" fork and mini V-brakes with brake shoes designed by TGN. The forks pictured in this review are an early prototype pair. Production forks will be nickel plated, polished, and manufactured without the factory brake boss in the center tube. As a future option, TGN may also offer aftermarket brake levers and beefy brake cables with Teflon lined cable housings.

The TGN V-brakes retail for $99.95. If you think about it, this is a great deal considering a chromed "bothy" fork will run you about $40.00 by itself. You can order the forks online here or if you have additional questions, you can send Mark email or a PM.

Installation of the TGN V-brakes and fork is very straight forward and requires only the following tools:

Ratchet (1/4" or 3/8" drive)
3/8" drive ratchet extension
10mm socket
5mm Allen wrench
1/4" Allen wrench
Hammer
Slip-joint pliers (also known as "Channel Locks")

Use the following steps to remove the old forks and brakes, then replace them with your new TGN V-brakes:

Fold the handlebars down, then remove the pin that connects the handlebar pole and FTG. I've found that a 3/8" drive socket extension makes an excellent "drift" and can be used in conjunction with a small hammer to gently remove the pin.
The FTG has an Allen bolt which runs through the head tube and connects to a wedge under the forks. Loosen this bolt a few turns using the 1/4" Allen wrench, then tap the Allen wrench lightly to break the wedge loose. Remove the Allen bolt and then the FTG.
Remove the front wheel assembly.
Disconnect the brake cable from the caliper.
Use the slip-joint pliers to remove the lock ring from the top of the headset. Once this has been removed, the forks will separate from the frame. Take notice of the orientation of the bearings on the top and bottom of the headset as they only go one way.
At this point, since you have the fork and bearings off, you might as well clean and pack them. I use carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush to remove the old grease and gunk, then pack them with a good bicycle bearing grease.

Place one bearing on the TGN fork (ball side down), then slide the fork back through the headset.
Place the other bearing over the fork tube (ball side up), then put the lock ring back on. The lock ring only needs to be snug. If it is over tightened, it will cause the bearings to bind.
Insert the wedge into the bottom of the fork, the Allen bolt through the FTG, and use the 1/4" Allen wrench to tighten everything up.
Put the handlebar pole assembly back on the FTG and insert the pin previously removed in step 1 above.
Attach the wheel assembly to the forks using the provided axle, nut, and washers.
Run the stock brake cable through the "noodle" (small curved tube), rubber dust boot, and under the clamp on the left brake arm.
Center both brake arms, remove slack from brake cable, and tighten cable clamp using 5mm Allen wrench.
There ya' go, you're ready to ride! Go easy on the brakes at first as it takes a while to get use to the increased stopping power. In no time, you'll be pulling off nose wheelies and wondering how you ever slowed down before.

The TGN V-brakes work great with the stock levers, but work even better with an aftermarket BMX or mountain bike lever. As I said at the beginning of the review, Mark is considering optional brake and cable packages, but if you want to get one now, check with your local bike shop and ask them what kind of V-brake levers they carry. You can also purchase them online at Dan's Comp, Cambria Bicycle Outfitters, or Bike Nashbar.

--- PedOSaurus (Eric Ellis)