San Diego/Mission Bay:
April 14 & 19, 2000

Went to San Diego on business the week of April 13-20, 2000. While there, I managed to get on the water twice -- Tuesday, April 14, and Saturday, April 19. Rented a kayak and gear from Southwest Sea Kayaks on Mission Bay in San Diego. Met Ed Gillette up close and personal. Ed soloed to Hawaii from Monterey in a Tofino double -- about 2,200 miles, give or take a few! [Check out http://www.swkayak.com -- under the "Tales & Tips" header.] Cool guy -- quiet, unassuming, rugged-looking ocean-goer type.

April 14: I rented a Necky Looksha and set out for the Pacific in 65-degree weather. Shrouded in sunlight and pushed along by 10-15 knot northwesterly winds, I played a while in Mission Bay and then went out through the pass. About halfway out I encountered some awesome 8-10' swells and a wall of fog that surreptitiously moved into the bay area. [Not unusual for the neighborhood from what I am told, but still a tad nervewracking.] A bit choppy and confused at the opening with some hefty wave-crashing on the rocks. Paddled out through it due west for about a half mile in big swells, challenging wind-driven chop and that eerie fog-laden mist. "Swam" with the bearded seals that were just about everywhere, headed south about a mile past the Ocean Beach Pier and then back through the pass. Paddled for another hour or so and then called it a day. A challenging sojourn once out in the Pacific -- some of the biggest swells I've encountered since Hurricane Danny in the Gulf, but nothing too outrageous. Felt a bit uneasy being out there alone in 58-degree water and fog -- but just couldn't turn back!!! And then came Saturday's paddle ...

April 19: Went back to Ed's at about noon with a gent who said he had done some kayaking in the past and was ready get it on! I jumped into a Looksha Sport with rudder [which I never used] and 22'-inch beam, and "Mo" in a 24-inch Necky Narpa. Another beautiful day weatherwise -- NNW winds at about 10, 64 degrees, and sunny with a bit of haze. It became readily obvious Mo was a bit rusty, so we paddled in the bay for an hour or so and then headed for the pass. I went over step-by-step what I would do in case he were to capsize.

Once in the pass, it was the same as Tuesday. About a 3/4-mile paddle out to the ocean and nothing but smooth 8-10' swells rolling into the bay. As we approached the mouth of the pass we were about 20 minutes away from high tide. The challenge now was some wave-crashing on the rocks and heavy duty chop. Mo was holding his own -- though I was persistent all the way out asking him if he wanted to turn back. No way, he said. Just too much adrenaline flowing by now. Still, I stayed close. And then ...

The BIG ones, pushed by the onset of high tide and the winds, began to roll in from the open ocean. It was by far the biggest set of waves I have EVER seen. That's right -- WAVES and EVER. No more swells -- just huge waves making their way into the pass. I guessed then the faces were 15-20 feet high. It was truly incredible -- and quickly became the most challenging moment I have ever taken on -- touring or whitewater. The first wave swept in and the ride up that face was beyond description -- the ride down even more so. Thank God it wasn't breaking at that point in time!!! Reflecting water off the rocks and the push of a second monster wave put us in an easy Class 4/5 situation.

I kept my eye on Mo continuously, and miraculously he was still upright! Regardless, I knew then we had to get the hell out of there -- for his sake! We rode the set's second wave -- all the way up and all the way down. UNBELIEVABLE!!! Etched indelibly on my paddling memory. While in the trough I hollered at Mo to start his turn and head back immediately. I made a 180 without delay, but Mo was too nervous as the third wave approached and he decided to ride it through before trying to make his turn. This one was the BIGGEST of all. I caught a glimpse of it with a quick turn and could not believe my eyes. For the first time even I was nervous! I didn't like having my back to it, that's for damned sure. In a few seconds I was on its crest, no longer grinning from ear to ear and bracing big time. It was then I heard Mo utter a muffled scream. I turned and saw his boat upside down -- but he was popping out from under it. I 180'd again and hollered at him to relax and remember what we had talked about. He swam to his bow and pushed his boat over to me. I considered emptying his boat at that point, but along came the fourth wave of this truly amazing set. And up we climbed! To stay upright I had to let go of his boat and battle the wave's after effects.

After that one passed, I went for Mo's boat a second time and suddenly, from behind, came the Mission Bay Harbor Police. Believe it or not they asked us if we wanted help, which I thought was pretty damned cool. Of course, without hesitation I asked that they pluck Mo out and take him into safer waters. He was on board and safe within seconds, and heading back into the bay. One helluva relief, I dare say, though I really wanted to find out if I could successfully do a T-rescue in that kind of water. Anyhow, I stayed out there and played in the last two waves of that set and then headed back to sanity's fortress. I later talked to the harbor cops and they said it was the wave set of the day at 12-15' -- hitting just before high tide. They also said the set took out a number of other smaller boats in the same vicinity.