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California Dreamin'        July 2005

I smiled as Sawtooth lit up, the morning sun casting its premier rays of the day on that sharp, faraway summit.  The Pinnacle Rocks lit up next, their rugged faces shining to my delight.  The sun finally made its appearance between Alta Peak and Elizabethon.  The former, being the highest point in Sequoia National Park, was still covered in snow.  I have never considered myself a morning person and I was surprised by my enthusiasm in watching the sunrise.  I enjoyed it immensely and decided that I would do it again before the trip was over.  It was an incredible way to start my day of exploration within the park and it had a positive effect on my attitude as well.  For a scant twelve hours earlier, I was in a funk, wishing I had cancelled the entire trip.  The motorcycle ride thru the still, predawn darkness, the sequential illumination of distant mountains and the casual breakfast in the soft, early morning light, all combined to brighten my outlook.  Cliché to say, but it really was the start of a great day and a wonderful trip....

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My plane landed on a Friday morning, the 1st of July.  I gathered my luggage, made my way to the train stop and headed to San Leandro to collect my rented mule, a bright, yellow BMW R1150GS.  At about 2pm , after all of the formalities were completed and the bike was loaded, I purchased a map and pointed her south on the 880 freeway.  After a couple of hours, the roads became smaller, the traffic slower and my wits duller.  By early evening, I realized the folly of flying in from the east coast, picking up a rental bike and expecting to ride a few hundred miles that same day.  I was up at 5:45am EST to get to the airport for my eight o'clock flight.  It was now about 8p EST, five local, and I was ready to call it a day before having gotten anywhere.  My goal was to ride the thru Big Sur and to land somewhere near San Luis Obisbo, finding a place to stay before dark.  But at this point, I was still on CA68, making my way to the coast.  I hadn't bitten off more than I could chew, but it was gonna take some Red Bull to wash it down.  Not a good start to the trip.

After a short break near Monterey , I decided that there was too much distance between me and my goal and too much daylight left to stop, so I continued to the coast and started down CA1.  The beautiful curves, the white beaches, the water-breaking rocks... it was all quite beautiful.  The chilling, coastal weather was a relief, in stark contrast to the sweltering heat of Georgia .  There was too much traffic to allow me to arc freely thru the bends, so when progress was impeded by an autotrain, I often took the opportunity to pull over for photographs.  

Eventually, I made it to San Simeon and sought lodging.  This is where my deliberate lack of planning, which usually allows for flexibility, landed me in a quandary.  The Friday of a three-day weekend is obviously not a good time to search for a motel room.  I’ve only been on the road during a holiday once before and on that occasion I stayed with a relative.  So I was unprepared for the difficulty I encountered in finding a room for a reasonable rate.  I became extremely annoyed with myself, as I had not even considered the possibility of this predicament. 

I decided to head inland in search of a room I could afford and was directed to a Motel 6 in Paso Robles.  Along the way, I was treated to the sun setting in my mirrors, casting long shadows over the beautiful, golden hills. 

I didn’t know what was going on in Paso Robles and I was too tired to care, but the town was hopping.  People everywhere, gas stations and restaurants were jammed with vehicles and humans.  It was quite the scene for what seemed to be a backwater town.  After some searching, I located the Motel 6, but the rates were still expensive and the service was quite rude.  I elected to pay more at a Best Western for service with a smile.  But I was chafed that I had to come off of so much money for lodging.  The next morning, I couldn’t get out of that town fast enough.

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words and images © john kevin daniels