Dakota Modifications

 

NOTE: For a complete list of all Mods with Part Numbers, here is a link to my part number spreadsheet file (TruckMods.xls).

 

 

Air Intake Modification Using Black PVC Tubing

This was the first performance modification I did to my Dakota. I got the idea after researching for several weeks on the net and the DML. The goal of this mod is to provide increased, cooler airflow, which results in more horsepower and better gas mileage. This is an ideal first choice in that it was inexpensive and relatively easy to do. It also provides a good performance increase for the little time and money spent.

Necessary parts:

   K&N CONE FILTER p/n RE-0950

 

1.     Note:

2.     This is the filter I chose to use on my V6 Dakota with a/c. I determined the size by contacting K&N directly and speaking with tech support. After determining the length, required flow for a V6, as well as collar size, this is the one I chose. It provides the equivalent airflow that a Dakota V8 would need if running at 5000rpm - plenty for my V6! Here are the dimensions of the K&N Cone filter if you are interested:

1.     6” filter element (length), 6” at base and 4 5/8” at top.

2.     3.5” I.D. boot

3. The I.D. of the stock airhat at the point of connection is 3”, so I chose to use 3” (I.D.) Black PVC to keep the airflow consistent.

     Home Depot is where I bought most of the supplies below:

1.      1 – 10”piece of 3" Black PVC tubing (ABS) (3”I.D./3.5” O.D.) Length based on having A/C line in the way, without A/C a longer piece COULD be used.

2.      1- 3" 45 degree adaptor (one end 3" O.D./one end 3" I.D.)

3.      1- Smallest can of ABS cement

4.      2- Dual clamp (has 2 tighteners on it) 3"pipe connector (with high temp rubber insert)

5.      1- Can of Matte-Black High Temp spray paint

6.      1- ~1/8”strip of aluminum (about 6” in length) to form a bracket to support the air-filter and PVC. (or find a premade bracket…see note below)

7.      1- wing nut or other to attach bracket to existing post on Wheel-well (previously used to support old air-box). I’m unsure of the size I used, but it fits onto the pre-existing post left behind after the airbox removal).

1.     Notes:

2.     #1: Depending on how the ABS tubing with filter is placed, whether you have other structures in the vicinity (such as AC), and which filter you decide to use will determine the actual length of the ABS tubing to be used.

3.     #2: Ensure that you "dry fit" the assembly to determine tube length and bracket locations.

4.     #3: I purchased a second dual-clamp 3" pipe connector so that I could use the rubber insert (see below) for the bracket and airhat.

5. #4: I bent a piece of 1/8” thick aluminum to form a “Z” bracket. This bracket is hidden under the PVC and supports the weight of the assembly by connecting to the wheel well.

 

INSTALLATION: THESE INSTRUCTIONS ONLY INCLUDE REMOVAL OF THE STOCK AIR-BOX ASSEMBLY! FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS TO BE POSTED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!

 

New assembly installation

 (Read over BEFORE beginning as small notes are made throughout instructions)

 

Unfortunately I did NOT take pics of this operation, but DRY FITTING the assembly is the key. Once you have done this, the steps I describe should make more sense.

 

NOTE: before going further, this would be a good point to PAINT the air-hat and/or PVC if you choose to do so. I did and used High-temp black. Painting gave the assembly a much more professional look. Black is not the ONLY option for color…in hindsight I should have gone with YELLOW :-).

 

1. Replace stock airhat and secure.
2. Attach filter to one end of straight PVC loosely and attach the 45-degree piece to the other end (no cement at this point). Line up the assembly with the airhat intake to DRY FIT and get an idea where everything falls in place (see AFTER pic).
3. Once you have determined that the lengths are accurate, disassemble and cement the two PVC pieces together.
4. Take the newly formed PVC piece along with the 3” dual clamp and line it up with the stock airhat. You should notice that although the I.D.s match, the outer diameters do not (airhat is thinner). To avoid “crimping” the clamp when you finally attach it to the airhat, I did two things to make the connection more even:
1. On the airhat there are a number of plastic tabs at the very end of the intake. I ground these down to create a flush surface (an exacto or razor will work).
2. I took the rubber insert from the second clamp and cut it to fit onto the airhat at the very end. This extra rubber provided enough thickness so that when I attached the assembly, the O.D.s of both pieces more closely matched and I did not get any crimping.
5. Now that everything is prepared for the final assembly. Attach the filter to the end of the PVC (include the 4” hose clamp) and clamp the assembly onto the airhat. At this point you need only tighten the PVC to Airhat connection, as this is the one, which holds the assembly in place. Take care in tightening the Airhat clamp to ensure you get as little crimping as possible.
6. At this point you should see the need for something to support this assembly from beneath. Although the Airhat clamp works great, I did not want the weight of the assembly to be supported at that point…this is where your metal bracket comes into play.
7. Depending on exactly how you placed the filter assembly, you’ll need to determine the length of the bracket. I took a piece approximately 1’ in length and bent it to form a “Z” bracket. I drilled a hole at the end that would attach to the wheel well and simply slid the bracket onto the existing post on the wheel well that used to be used in conjunction with the old airbox. The other end of the bracket I slid underneath the 4” hose clamp and secured the bracket and filter simultaneously.
1. NOTE: you may wish to place a small piece of the rubber you have left underneath the bracket to protect the wheel-well and the PVC from scratching. I found initially that although the PVC stands up to the heat, if there is direct metal to PVC contact that area will begin to melt slightly. The rubber piece worked to prevent this form happening.
2. Unfortunately I don’t recall the exact size of the nut I used to connect the bracket to the Wheel-well post, I simply went to the hardware store and took a guess at the size.

8.   LASTLY…I found the bracket to be the biggest pain…because I had to drill and bend it to meet the existing set-up. I would guess that you might be able to locate a premade bracket at a hardware store (gutter brackets etc), which may do the trick. The only limiting factor is to ensure it is long enough and will fit over the pre-existing post on the Wheel-well.

 

***If you have any suggestions or problems with these instructions, or if you have done this yourself and have a tip (nut sizes, brackets etc.) feel free to drop me an email. If I use your tip, I’ll be sure to place an appreciatory link to your site.

 

 

BEFORE AND AFTER PICTURES