Interesting Inspect Photos Illustrate how we communicate to you problem areas revealed by our inspection
Effective March 15, 2012, I am no longer taking on any new clients. Between friends, relatives, the existing HBIS client base I have, and computer work I am performing under the name "Puter-Tutor" I am able to maintain a comfortable level of business and do not wish to expand past this client base.
If you want an inspector who will look out for your interests, make sure you hire one who is not a favorite with the real estate agents. If the agents have a list of inspectors, it might be wise to look beyond their list.
"Certification" of inspectors many times serves to limit just what the inspector can and cannot 'report'. When the inspector sees obvious signs of hidden problems, many certification companies require that the 'certified-inspector' not report on anything they cannot actually see. For example, when an inspector sees numerous problems in a basement involving the way branch circuit wiring has been installed and the way certain plumbing pipes have been installed, the inspector is limited in that they cannot draw a conclusion by applying the rules of logic to a premise that these visible problems most likely extend above the basement, hidden into wall cavities and even higher - hidden between upper floors and ceilings.
For most construction and buildings that have been completely renovated, we have observed that the different components and systems have either been properly installed, or they have not been properly installed. In the case of shabby workmanship, it is typically safe to assume that the entire dwelling is substandard once there are sufficient visible problems shown to the prospective buyer to substantiate that claim!
Bear in mind—with new construction—that these pictures illustrate extremely shoddy workmanship. If the current owner tries to sell the home, they may take quite a loss as visible problems will be readily apparent to the prospective buyer. If a thorough inspection is performed, problems not readily apparent to the layperson will be revealed, typically resulting in either the buyer changing their mind on buying or expecting to have the price reduced, as the problems were not readily apparent the first time the prospective buyer walked through the home.
I have been told on many occasions that my client (the prospective buyer) marveled at the wonderful location, the home's design, and during their initial walk through the home, they were constantly being distracted to "look at this and look at that," the seller(s) (and/or agents) showing them all the 'niceties' this particular home has to offer! It is our opinion that it is best if the seller tells the truth and is up-front about known issues as, many times, obvious problems are typically found within the first fifteen minutes, or so, of an inspection when we are called in for a "second-opinion" regarding the condition of the dwelling!
If the seller has dishonestly filled out a Seller's Disclosure Form of some type, the discovery of problems by the inspector end up making the seller seem as though they are trying to "pull one over" on the buyer—oftentimes making the buyer look at the entire Seller's Disclosure with much skepticism! On many occasions, we have pointed out major problems within the first few minutes of the inspection which a typical homeowner (even someone merely living in the home) should have definitely known about, e.g., if steps leading to the front door have different riser heights, someone living in the home would, most likely, have discovered this problem the first time they stumbled or tripped on the improper steps.
Many times, major problems are visible from the street (road), without having to even set foot on the property. A simple "drive-by" by a good inspector, many times, reveals visible major problems (of course, if the home is set back, out of sight from the road, such a 'cursory-view' cannot be made).
Regardless of how the home is constructed, making the home 'look-nice' to entice buyers seems to be the 'norm' rather than the 'exception'! Go to many real estate agent web sites and they will oftentimes have a list of things to do to make the home more appealing when the prospective buyer first walks in! The prospective buyer is dazzled by the home, much like a deer standing in the highway is dazzled by the headlamps of the approaching motor vehicle!
There is no excuse, whatsoever, for the poor construction we see in many brand-new homes!
New home: Improper installation of CertainTeed WeatherBoardstm FiberCement siding.
The instructions and warranty clearly state that the 50 year warranty will not be valid unless all installation instructions and specifications are strictly followed.
To summarize, here is a new home with new 50-year siding installed that does not have any warranty whatsoever due to improper siding installation.
These are but a few of the many details observed, and photographs taken, during an extremely thorough inspection of this brand-new home, which, incidentally has never been occupied!
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Installation instructions and specifications clearly state that all siding must overlap exactly 1 1/4". Here there is an overlap of 1 1/8" (as indicated by red arrow). Observe the large separation between siding boards in this location. Nails cannot be placed any closer than 1" from the end of board and 3/4" from the edge of board. The nail shown is approximately 1/2" from the top edge of the board.
Here there is a 1" overlap of siding board - improper installation. According to instructions, there must be exactly 1/8" separation between the end of each siding board and any adjoining trim to allow for expansion and contraction which is to then be caulked to cover the 1/8" separation. Here there is no separation between the siding and a window unit.
The bottom board shown is improper where cut too long and up against the adjoining casing - the top board separation of 1/8" is good. The overlap of 1 1/16" is improper. Any boards that are a tight fit - without any separation will most likely buckle in time as a result of any expansion.
Both the left and right board ends are damaged in this picture where they have apparently been forced into position. Observe the nail that is close to the top edge of the left board (as specified - all nails must be at least 3/4" from the edge of the board).
Although the overlap is correct in this photo (as indicated by red arrow), the upper and lower boards are improperly installed where there is lacking a 1/8" separation between the end of board and the adjoining door trim (brickmould).
Observe extremely wide separation under a window where the siding board has been ripped too narrow - even caulking would not repair this problem!
Installation specifications clearly state that all nails must be installed in such a manner so as to protrude into a stud or other solid structure. Upon moving insulation aside from within the building, one can clearly see that the majority of fasteners have been actually installed into OSB alone and not into structural members. Where adjoining pieces (butt ends) of siding meet in locations not over structure, there are special metal clips that must be used to secure the adjoining siding ends. There are numerous locations where siding joints do not fall over structural members and there were none of these metal clips found anywhere on the job site.
Another example between studs where siding has been improperly installed where nailed into locations that are non-structural.
New deck structure on new house.
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Pressure treated support posts not installed on the center of the tops of sonatube footings as indicated in red outlines. The forward post and footing in this photo is actually leaning (tilting) to the right at the bottom of post (top of sonatube footing).
New sonatube footing is crooked - tilting downhill. If you look closely you can see that the four individual sonatubes are not in line with one another. Due to the apparent movement, one would wonder if the footings have been properly installed for this climate - at least 4' below grade (to place the bottom below the frost line). Proper footing construction may be compromised including lack of larger footings at the bottom to distribute the weight and possible lack of sufficient rebar, if any, to prevent cracking or breakage of the concrete. Concrete footings that are improperly installed typically need replacement due to structural damage associated with footing movement, heaving and settling. It is much easier and much less expensive to properly install adequate footings the first time than it is to jack and shore up the structure, excavate to remove the existing footings and install new footings. If one footing is suspect with respect to apparent poor construction, all footings should be replaced.
The next three photographs illustrate a carrying beam that has been improperly constructed where, in three separate locations, two of three beam members have been spliced in close proximity to one another and not over (or even near) support posts. When observing the full length of the beam from either end, one can see deflection of approximately 1/2" which has already occurred in the three spans located between the four vertical support posts. The spans are approximately 8' each (between support posts). This is 1/2" deflection in brand new construction - in time the amount of deflection will most likely increase in these three locations. This is the left span (beam member ends in close proximity to one another outlined in red).
This is the middle span (beam member ends in close proximity to one another outlined in red).
This is the right span (beam member ends in close proximity to one another outlined in red).
Porch roof structure improperly secured to eave fascia on modular home
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Porch roof structure connected to eave fascia on modular home without being tied into roof structure
Visible damage to eave has occurred due to weight of porch roof structure combined with snow load from previous winter
Not only is cosmetic damage visible but there is most likely hidden structural damage as indicated by the visible deflection of original house eave
Close-up view of eave fascia and soffit buckling
Roof structure ledger board secured to eave fascia is noticeably lower on the left due to a combination of ledger pulling away from the eave and settling of any eave structure
Unfortunately, in order to correct the problem, major work will be required to a:) temporarily support the porch roof structure b:) open up the eave to gain sufficient access to structure c:) make necessary repairs to the existing eave structure where the structure is damaged d:) properly tie the porch roof structure into the house roof structure and e:) finish all cosmetic work relative to installing eave soffit, fascias and any other trim.
Numerous problems throughout new home (less than one year old) This is a different home than that which is described in the sample report
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Vertical and angular structural supports haphazardly installed and missing in various locations - installed crooked and some are pieced together
Crooked vertical supports where installed. Vertical supports missing in other locations.
The majority of roof rafter vents were strewn about the attic rather than being installed in position between rafters. Where the roof rafter vents have been installed, the installation is so haphazard that the majority of vents are literally falling out of place!
This is supposedly a finished job with respect to all attic venting installation and cleanup of debris
Where rafter vents were installed the installation did not provide for proper air flow down into the eaves due to fiberglass insulation blockage. This particular rafter vent was moved from position to illustrate fiberglass blockage - observe discarded soda can left on-site that was hidden behind the bottom of the rafter vent.
Another example of blockage between eaves and attic space (outlined in red)
At least 2" clearance is required between this new insulated chimney pipe and combustibles; here we have an approximate 1/4" clearance
Here the chimney is actually in contact with combustible roof structure
Tight fit (as you can see outlined in red) to combustibles
Where the chimney extends through the attic space the fit was not correct so the pipe was bent at a connection between two pipes to make up the error. This "bent" chimney could not be viewed from the attic access so the homeowner had no idea this problem existed. Only by walking to the opposite end of the attic (from the attic access) could one then observe this problem.
A close-up view of the connection of two sections of pipe within the attic space. Observe damaged joint visible on left side. Any chimney fire in this chimney could result in flames exiting (coming out of) this joint along the left side of photo where the joint separation is greatest and where a vertical crack in the metal is visible.
Upward deflection (buckling) of the roof sheathing under the front porch roof clearly visible at the front of the porch
As viewed from the underside, the front porch roof sheathing has become separated from where it connects to the roof rafters (outlined in red)
As indicated in red, the front porch roof rafters are merely toe-nailed into the ledger - the ledger merely nailed to the house wall (green outline). The ledger should be bolted into house structure.
Separation and buckling of eave fascia
Separations and damage to another eave soffit and fascia
Same...
Buckled vinyl siding adjacent to the front porch. Any improper installation of vinyl siding most likely voids the manufacturer warranty. Any claims for damages such as blowoff will be followed through and investigated by a factory representative to ensure that the product was properly installed.
Extremely poor finish of colonial baseboard end being cut off square without returning back to the wall. Observe polyurethane on sheetrock wall. Poor sheetrock finish. Lack of polyurethane application on right side of photo where the wood is lighter in color.
Extremely poor finish of colonial baseboard end being cut off square without returning back to the wall. Observe white paint on the end of baseboard. At the bottom of the colonial baseboard glue or adhesive has damaged the vinyl floor covering resulting in bubbling of the vinyl wear layer. Observe poorly finished sheetrock. Polyurethane not completely covering riser along right end (near the wall) where the riser is lighter in appearance. Right nail in metal nosing driven on angle resulting in protrusion of the nail rather than the nail being flush with the top of the metal.
Colonial baseboard not in contact with the floor. Baseboard cut a bit short and a small piece installed which has broken leaving the top portion of small piece in place. Observe white paint on bottom riser near wall. Poor sheetrock finish where wall adjoins second step riser.
Polyurethane on sheetrock wall. Large drip (run) of white paint that has actually been polyurethaned over!
Polyurethane drips on floor and on sheetrock wall
Poor miter (in green outline); white paint on casing (outlined in red)
Bottom stair tread cut too short then small piece of wood pieced in to "fix" the error. Observe the condition of sheetrock on the lower wall and polyurethane drips on flooring (best viewed in enlarged photo).
Poor paint job - paint on the edge of door casing
Improperly laid vinyl flooring is curling along the bathtub. This vinyl floor covering may need to be completely removed and new vinyl properly installed.
Numerous cracks throughout the dwelling in sheetrock walls and ceilings as shown in the following photos. Notice white paint on the edge of the natural wood casing.
Cracks in corner between walls and between walls and ceiling. Bear in mind that repairing this crack at the ceiling will most likely require the entire ceiling to be re-textured.
Small vertical crack visible over right casing; large crack between ceiling and walls. Repairing the crack along the edge of the ceiling will most likely require the entire ceiling to be re-textured as you cannot "blend" in this type of texturing.
Damaged sheetrock in lower corner of bedroom wall. Observe poor finishing of sheetrock on each side of the cracked corner. Poor miter of colonial baseboard inside corner.
Observe popped sheetrock fasteners in closet; paint on edge of shelf support
Crack between wall and textured ceiling. Necessary repairs will involve retexturing the entire ceiling.
Popped fastener shown in top right portion of photo. Poor sheetrock joint between wall and ceiling along left side of photo (best viewed in enlarged photo). Again, the ceiling will need re-texturing.
Opening in sheetrock around receptacle cut too large
Durabead visible in outside sheetrock corner (poor sheetrock component installation and/or poor compounding of sheetrock)
Bad sheetrock joint to right of window (outlined in red). Poor paint job with paint on edge of colonial window casing (outlined in green).
Polyurethane drips on finished vinyl floor outlined in red
Drips of polyurethane across vinyl flooring
Excessive polyurethane pooled up on vinyl flooring at bottom of colonial casing
Polyurethane drips on vinyl flooring outlined in red. Poor woodwork and stair tread finish outlined in green. Also notice poor sheetrock finish work (clearly visible in enlarged photo).
Minimum required well height of 18" (from top of well to grade) not established. Grade does not slope away from the well. All grade should slope away from the casing and the top of the casing should be 18" above the sloped grade.
Large dairy barn with major moisture problems leading to much mold and mildew throughout and major corrosion of electrical system components. Some problems observed with the nearby farmhouse.
Left-click image for large picture
Major moisture problem and lack of ventilation leading to mold and mildew on all interior surfaces throughout the barn
Close-up of overhead beams and ceiling boards showing mold/mildew
Main service entrance cable dangerously bent in tight radius around steel siding on barn corner. Any chafing of insulation could energize the siding.
Same service entrance cable beyond the corner where it enters the wall through steel siding, again, any damage to the cable could energize the siding
Major rust and corrosion of electrical service components
Rusted components
Non-moisture protected switches
Gutter cleaner switch box. Timer located to left not enclosed in moisture-protected enclosure.
Major rust and corrosion of and certain damage to fluorescent lighting fixtures located throughout the barn
Close-up of fluorescent lighting fixture
High drive
High drive structure is rotted where resting on the outer end upon a concrete retaining wall that is leaning inwardly
The farmhouse lightening arrest system is damaged and in need of repairs by a licensed technician
Farmhouse floor joists under one room are bearing upon non-pressure treated blocks lying on the crawl space dirt floor
Major inward leaning of the farmhouse back stone foundation wall to the extent that this entire section appears to be on the verge of collapse
Farmhouse wood furnace is in need of replacement due to major firebox damage from overheating
Firebox damage - left side, including warpage of steel to the extent that it is perforated
Firebox warpage and associated perforation on right side
Major firebox left-wall warpage and overhead control disintegration
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