1. When viewing the exposed edges of vinyl siding around the perimeter of windows (which edges are covered by a vinyl flange located around the perimeter of each window), a provision does not appear to have been made to prevent any driving rain (or prevent water running down the vinyl wall) from entering behind the vinyl siding where there are visible openings located between the vinyl siding and underlying exterior wall.

2. Exterior wall light fixtures and exterior receptacles mounted to vinyl trim ring blocks do not appear to include provision for sealing visible openings around the perimeter of vinyl siding located behind the finish trim.

3. When viewing the back house wall plane from a vantage point behind the garage, there is noticeable outward bowing of the vinyl siding in a location under the kitchen sink window (approximate midsection of wall).

4. Vinyl J-Channel located on the left house wall directly over the garage front and back roofs and directly under left house wall vinyl siding may be problematic as a result of a combination of water running down the left wall and splashing water from the garage roof running down the wall into the J-Channels which both terminate at the bottom edge of garage roof. Clear caulking has been applied to cover a small separation in vinyl siding at the bottom of these J-Channels, however there appear to be other openings and separations relative to the siding and adjoining eave fascias where water could possibly enter behind the siding and/or eave fascia.

5. Outside vinyl corners and inside vinyl corners in various locations need cutting off where the corners extend down below the bottommost edge of vinyl wall siding.

6. Screws visible in various locations on exterior light fixtures, exterior spigots and on the exterior boiler vent flange appear to consist of galvanized sheetrock screws and, as such, may rust in time. Stainless steel screws are recommended to be used in all these locations.

7. The section of vinyl siding located behind the frost free spigot (along the back of the house) is damaged on the left side where the siding is broken (cracked, separated) at the left screw.

8. Vinyl siding appears to be improperly installed in various locations where buckled and apparently loose under the second-floor left window (located just over the back garage roof), under the front door and under the right patio door.

9. In numerous locations on the house and attached garage vinyl siding seems to be improperly installed where large sections of siding are loose enough that, when pushing or pulling on the siding there is extreme looseness such as typically occurs when an insufficient number of fasteners are used to secure the siding and/or fasteners have not been driven in according to specification. In these apparent loose areas of siding there may be flapping of the siding during certain high winds which could result in premature blow off of siding and/or breakage of siding (depending on how cold the siding is during high winds).

10. In one location approximately 12" over (and centered between) two front first-floor windows there is a section of vinyl siding that is partially unzipped (unfastened along the bottom edge).

11. Vinyl outside corners located on all four corners of house have been improperly installed where the tops of corners are installed in a twisted fashion resulting in visibly crooked tops of all corners. At the two outside corners located on the front of the house there appears to be improper fitting at the overlap resulting in a concave effect of the underlying vinyl corner. At the house left-back corner, the overlap appears to be improper where the upper section does not overlap the corner along the forward section (the portion facing the back garage roof). At the house right-back corner the apparent improper installation of vinyl outside corner top portion appears to have resulted in a kink or crease in the outside corner in a location approximately 12" below the eave soffit. In this right-back corner, there appears to be a scratch or possibly a crack in the top portion of lower corner piece where the top and middle corner pieces meet.

12. Along the right side wall there is a section of vinyl siding that is installed tightly against a vertical J-Channel located on the front corner of the right deck structure and which extends over to, and is tight to the right-front outside corner. The next section of vinyl siding located below the aforementioned piece is also installed tightly at both ends. A separation between the ends of horizontal siding sections and outside corners and between ends of horizontal siding sections and J-Channels is typically specified as common installation procedure to allow the siding to expand and contract without resulting in buckling of siding. In these locations and in any other locations around the entire exterior of dwelling and attached garage where siding sections are tightly fitted to adjacent corners and/or J-Channels there is a potential for buckling of siding as the siding expands during warm weather.

13. On the right wall there are apparently two small holes in vinyl siding in a location approximately 1’ to 2’ from the right-front corner and approximately 66" off the ground (eye-level). In the same approximate location relative to the right-front corner there are two small marks in vinyl siding approximately 10’ to 12’ over the aforementioned holes which could possibly be holes themselves or holes which have been puttied.

14. Pencil marks and pencil writing remains visible in certain locations on vinyl siding.

15. In any locations where there could possibly be entrance of water behind siding or behind siding fixtures and components damage to hidden wall sheathing and/or wall structure may eventually occur depending on whether a type of waterproofing material or waterproofing membrane has been properly installed on wall sheathing to effectively protect the sheathing from moisture and/or water related damage.

16. For detailed information regarding possible problems associated with water entrance behind siding, please refer to the attached document titled Rainwater Intrusion in Light-Frame Building Walls, by Charles Carll, Research Forest Products Technologist, USDA Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory, Madison, Wisconsin.

1. The front porch step structure extending full width along the left end of deck does not appear to include footings but rather appears to be resting upon a horizontal pressure treated board located under the stair stringers and on top of the crushed stone walkway. When stepping on certain portions of lower step there is movement of the step structure due to apparent lack of support.

2. The front deck banister horizontal bottom rail is loose where it joins the front house wall.

3. Stainless steel nails used to secure the front deck banister horizontal bottom rail to vertical posts are protruded and need to be set.

4. Where pressure treated balusters have been secured to horizontal upper and lower members along both the front and right decks two screws located at each end (top and bottom) of balusters are, for the most part, in line with one another rather than being staggered. In time, this may result in splitting of the baluster ends where the screws are located.

5. A large chip of wood is broken from the face of the front deck banister central 4x4 vertical support post bottom (just above the decking).

6. Only one of six front deck floor joist hangers is properly installed along the ledger board as there are separations between the bottom of joist ends and the bottom portion of joist hangers in the remaining five locations.  Along the front ends of joists certain joist hanger bottoms do not contact bottoms of floor joists.

Right pressure treated deck structure

1. During the inspection there was observed at two right deck 6x6 vertical support posts apparent fresh ground around the base of posts where it appears that recent digging or excavation was performed. If digging or excavation was performed to remedy any problem associated with any footings under these support posts then there may be a concern with respect to any footing construction and depth of any footings.

2. The right deck banister forward horizontal bottom rail is loose where it joins the right house wall. There appears to be a nail or screw securing the end of this rail to the wall.

3. Two pressure treated 6x6 vertical support posts supporting the right deck main carrying beam each have severe checking (cracking). The carrying beam appears to be toenailed to the top of the two 6x6 posts. Various floor joists are toenailed to the top of carrying beam and several floor joists are not resting upon the beam but rather have a separation between the bottom of joist and top of beam. The carrying beam appears to have been improperly constructed where the tops and bottoms of individual boards (beam members) are not flush with one another resulting in an uneven top and bottom surface of beam.

4. In five locations right deck vertical 4x4 banister posts extending below decking are reinforced with pressure treated blocking that has been secured with non-galvanized nails. Nails in all five of these locations are now rusting (being visible underneath the deck structure).

5. Only several of ten joist hangers located along the ledger board serving to support 2x8 joist ends are properly installed where the joist bottoms are resting upon the bottom edge of hanger. Two side (angled) nails are missing on one of these hangers.

Exterior grading

1. The grade does not slope away from the dwelling in certain locations. All grade, including that grade located below cedar mulch should slope away from the foundation to facilitate proper drainage of surface water away from the foundation.

2. A small swale (depression) leading from the basement entry door located on the right end of dwelling may be higher at the end closest to several trees. Any improper angle of this depression and/or any problem that may be present with respect to insufficient size of depression may be problematic during certain times — especially during winter months should there be massive snow and ice accumulation within the depression and at the same time should there be a period of rain and melting snow. Any such conditions could possibly result in pooling of water in the depression. Depending on how much pooling of water occurs within the depression, water backup into the basement at the entry door may occur.

1. Paint on the exterior jambs and casings of the front door unit, around two overhead doors, around the garage back entry door and around the basement entry door appears to consist of one coat primer (which is typically included with new doors). Peeling of paint in various locations (primarily at the bottoms of casings and trim) leaving certain areas of bare wood exposed is an indication that the apparent primed surfaces have not been protected with one or two coats quality exterior paint. The garage back entry door exterior jamb (hinge side) appears to have some separation damage already starting to develop at the finger joints due to apparent lack of exterior paint protection.

2. An exterior vinyl wall vent located on the left house wall near the left-front corner and directly over the lower portion of garage front roof may be problematic with respect to location directly over the roof as any splashing rain from the garage roof could possibly enter the vent and/or could result in the entrance of water behind vinyl siding where the vent is located unless provision has been made to seal and waterproof the opening in siding through which the vent extends.

3. There is white paint (or other white substance) that appears to have been sprayed (or spattered) onto the main house right-front vinyl outside corner (right side).

4. When viewing the main house right wall plane from a vantage point at the right-front corner, the vinyl siding located on the gable (over the level of the second floor ceiling) appears to be bowed outwardly. This may be a problem with the vinyl siding and/or could be related to improper framing and sheathing installation with respect to the gable itself.

5. The front door top hinge appears to have at least one loose screw. The hole that was bored for the front door lockset appears to have been too large in diameter as the lockset barely covers the hole resulting in an opening at the bottom of the lockset. The latch unit plate used has round edges (designed for a routed mortise) and is installed into the edge of steel door having a square edged mortise. Not only is the latch plate incorrect, the latch plate appears to have been forced or "pounded" into place as the steel door edge along the bottom of plate is bent (buckled). When closing the door, the latch does not line up with the center opening of the striker plate but is instead in a higher position within the plate opening.

6. There is buckling of various roofing shingles on the upper portion of back garage roof where the roofing shingles adjoin the left house wall.

Attached two car garage

1. The aluminum eave fascias (located on the gable over the overhead doors) have been improperly installed where the lower aluminum fascia sections on both the front and back eaves overlap the upper fascia sections. This may result in any water running down the fascia to enter behind the fascia and into the eave structure in these two locations.

2. Four 2x6 non-pressure treated boards serving as an inside frame for the installation of two overhead doors are in contact with both the concrete frost wall and concrete floor. Apparent wicking of water has occurred where water marks are visible on the bottom several inches of all four boards. Being non-pressure treated wood, there will most likely be premature rotting of these board bottoms should they remain unprotected from moisture.

3. A separation between the left overhead door left pressure treated vertical jamb and adjacent left-corner frost wall was observed where daylight is visible in this location from within the garage.

4. A separation of approximately ¾" exists between the bottom portion of 2x4 framed front garage wall and the house left concrete foundation wall where daylight is visible from within the garage.

5. Fire rated sheetrock located on the right garage wall (adjoining house wall) is recommended to have all existing joints and adjoining sections taped.

6. Roof trusses are toenailed to the front and back upper wall plates. Hurricane straps do not appear to have been used.

7. The garage back entry door Schlage lockset appears to have an improperly adjusted striker plate with respect to how the striker plate receives the two-piece latch unit. Two (apparent) sheetrock screws installed in the upper hinge of this door to secure same to the jamb have stripped heads (Phillips) possibly as a result of not drilling pilot holes for the screws before they were installed.

8. The steel prehung door unit located between the garage and kitchen which is installed in an apparent one hour rated fire wall is apparently not itself a fire rated door as a UL label is not visible on the door specifying that the door is suitable for use as a fire door. When knocking on this door jamb there is looseness of the jamb on the lockset side. The brickmold casing located in the garage is loose on both left and right sides. The Yale lockset on this door has a rounded-corner latch plate mounted on the edge of door where the door has been mortised for a square edge plate.

9. A concern was observed where steel angle brackets supporting the overhead door track ends and door opener hardware are secured to the wood structure with lag screws. Lag screws that typically come furnished with overhead door hardware are rather short in length. It is therefore recommended that all existing lag screws be removed (one at a time) and replaced if needed with longer (and possibly heavier wire) lag screws.

Concrete foundation (main house and attached garage) including basement and attached garage concrete slabs

    A new Fisher M-Scope® Model 1280-X Metal Detector utilizing an 8" Concentric, Co-Planer Search Coil with eight new Duracell AA batteries was used to detect the presence (or lack) of rebar and/or steel mesh reinforcement within accessible and exposed portions of garage foundation, garage concrete slab, house foundation and basement concrete slab. The 1280-X was operated using the following settings during detection - Sensitivity: 6, Discrimination (trash rejection – all types of metal are detected at the zero setting): 0. Before using the 1280-X on this particular inspection site, the unit was tested and calibrated beforehand over a 4" thick concrete slab known be reinforced with 6"x6" 10/10 steel wire gauge (W-Number Wire Size W1.4/W1.4) steel reinforcement mesh and #4 rebar throughout the slab. The subject test slab utilized Form-A-Key Key-Loc® Joint System installed in a pie-shaped configuration to facilitate screeding of concrete in a downward angle towards the center of floor where a central floor drain is located. Using the same settings on the 1280-X the unit was tested on 8" thick concrete walls known to be reinforced with #4 rebar located a maximum distance apart of 24", both vertically and horizontally. Using the 1280-X under these conditions and utilizing the aforementioned settings, the 1280-X easily detected the presence of both the 6x6 mesh and rebar. In fact, the unit was so accurate that the detection of mesh throughout the floor could easily be observed every 6" in both directions. When locating and sensing rebar, the entire length of rebar could easily be followed using a side-to-side sweeping motion. All intersecting rebar was also detected and could easily be followed, at will, for the entire length of same. Of course, Key-Loc® Joints were easily detected during preliminary calibration as they are visible in the floor as planned hairline cracks in the slab (pie-shaped configuration).

When utilizing the Fisher 1280-X, the following was observed:

1. When scanning the entire garage floor concrete slab there were no indications of any steel mesh reinforcement or rebar existing within the slab. An occasional signal produced in various "spots" throughout the slab seemed to be detection of a nail or other small piece of metal most likely located under the slab. Any such signals were definitely limited to a very small area, such as would be the case when sensing a nail, electrical box knockout, bottle cap, etc.

2. When scanning around the perimeter of garage floor slab (within approximately 14" of the perimeter frost wall) there were numerous signals which may have been the detection of steel concrete ties within the frost walls, rebar in the frost walls and/or sill plate anchor bolts extending down into the frost walls. Based on the accuracy of the detector and the obvious and significant difference between detector activity when comparing the detection of the newly-poured subject property garage slab to the "test" slab it appears that the garage floor slab does not contain metal mesh or rebar for the majority of slab.

3. When scanning all basement walls, apparent rebar was detected extending vertically up the bottom of all walls a distance of approximately 24" and located at intervals of approximately 24" to 36". This would typically be vertical sections of rebar extending from the concrete footing onto which the wall is poured (and thus extending up into the walls). When scanning basement walls both vertically and horizontally, vertical or horizontal rebar was not detected within the walls other than those aforementioned short vertical pieces located along the bottom of walls.

4. When scanning the basement floor concrete slab, exact results were obtained as for the garage slab. Various "spots" were detected in various locations indicating small pieces of metal debris – none of which could be followed for any distance but were rather "pinpoint" spots. There is a concern regarding the apparent lack of steel reinforcement within the central portion of basement concrete floor – particularly under and around four vertical support columns. If provision was not made during the foundation and concrete work with respect to additional concrete slab thickness and/or installation of concrete footings under the slab to help reinforce and support the slab in locations under and around four vertical support columns, then there could possibly be future cracking of the slab under and around the support columns.

The following was observed with respect to concrete foundations and concrete slabs:

1. The garage floor concrete slab is cracked in numerous locations to the extent that at least six individual sections of concrete slab were counted throughout the slab.

2. Movement appears to have occurred of the front garage frost wall away from where this wall adjoins the house left foundation wall as observed where a crack is visible on both the interior and exterior of the adjoined walls. This may be the cause of separation observed of the garage concrete slab floor away from where said floor was poured up against the left foundation wall and where there is now an approximate 1/8" to 3/16" separation between the slab and left foundation wall at the front of the garage and the separation narrows to approximately 1/16" between the slab and left foundation wall at the back of garage (adjacent to the back entry door).

3. A possible mistake in the planning and/or pouring of the garage back concrete foundation wall and concrete slab at the location of the back garage entry door has apparently necessitated installation of pressure treated lumber to fill the void in foundation and/or slab located below the aluminum door threshold.

4. Digging or excavation was not performed during this inspection. Therefore, the depth of any foundation located below the right basement entry door was not investigated. There does however appear to be a visible concrete footing extending several inches out from what appears to be the base of right foundation wall which is visible at grade level approximately 4" below the entry door threshold. Technically, a foundation wall should extend below frost level at the location of the basement entry door (which would extend approximately 4’ deeper than grade level below the door). This would prevent frost heaving of the portion of frost wall and concrete slab floor during winter months — especially if this door is used during winter months as foot traffic could drive any frost deeper into the ground thus exacerbating any frost damage to the foundation wall and/or concrete slab in this location.

5. It is recommended that a structural engineer be employed for the purpose of investigating the cracked garage floor slab, apparent movement of the garage frost wall away from the left foundation wall, possible insufficient support of the basement slab under four support columns and foundation wall construction under the right basement entry door.

Heating system

    The following observed items should be evaluated by, and any necessary repairs made by, a certified heating technician. Any other deficient items which may be uncovered or seen by this technician during the course of repairs should also be corrected:

1. The vinyl siding located over the ProTech boiler vent termination tee appears to be concaved which could possibly be the result of heat damage to the siding should the hot gases be exiting when certain winds are present causing the hot gases to blow against the vinyl siding. If such heat damage to siding has occurred, then worse heat damage could possibly occur depending on wind conditions during exhaust gas venting. Referring to page three of the attached ProTech Systems, Inc.  FasNSeal Vent System Installation Instructions in the Horizontal Installation section, the second bulleted item clearly specifies "The termination should be away from trees, shrubs, or decorative items as flue gases could   cause damage."

2. With respect to the ProTech Wall Thimble Installation, page three of the FasNSeal®W2 Double Wall Vent Systems Installation Instructions Horizontal Installation Instructions, Item #2 specifies "Cut the opening for the Wall Thimble to allow the spacer tabs protruding from the outer plate to sit comfortably within the opening."  It appears that the spacer brackets to which the instructions refer are four metal tabs located and visible – one on each corner of Part A (exterior portion of thimble). If this is true, then it appears that the four spacer tabs are not set within the opening but rather are resting against the vinyl siding.

3. The stainless FasNSeal sections of pipe located over the boiler (within the basement) seem to be loose at the joined connections. Refer to page two of the FasNSeal®W2 Double Wall Vent Systems Installation Instructions under the heading "Joint Connections" to verify that all joints are connected according to manufacturer specifications.

4. Baseboard heating units are scratched in numerous locations throughout the dwelling — primarily at the ends and apparently from end caps being moved to adjust to meet adjoining colonial wooden baseboards. In many locations the colonial wooden baseboards have been cut too short and do not meet the baseboard unit end caps even when the caps are installed out as far as they can be without falling off the unit.

5. Various baseboard heating units are dented on the top and may be damaged to the extent that they need replacement.

6. When observing the baseboard heating units from the underside with the use of a telescoping mirror and flashlight, one can observe that the plastic clips attached to the underside of aluminum fins which should set centered upon the support brackets are in some locations in proper position (centered) under the brackets, and in other locations the thicker edge of clip is resting upon the bracket and certain clips are not situated under the brackets at all but are located adjacent to the brackets.

7. In numerous locations (the majority of locations) throughout the dwelling there was observed at baseboard heating element soldered fittings (as viewed with telescoping mirror) apparent excessive soldering paste which has not been removed after the soldering process. Corrosion visible on fittings and on the heating element copper tubing may be the result of insufficient removal of soldering paste. Any such corrosion may result in perforation of the copper piping – especially of the baseboard heating element pipe (which, for these units, may be a thinner walled pipe than type L or Type M copper tubing).

8. Index card-type templates (tan in color) that came with the baseboard heating units to specify fastener locations have, in certain locations been stuffed behind the fins and in at least one location the template card has been actually screwed to the inside back of the unit before the heating element fins were installed.

9. In numerous locations around the dwelling wall paint has been applied to the top back edge of baseboard heating elements and it appears that removal of wall paint has resulted in scratching or discoloration of the top back edge of baseboard heating elements.

10. Baseboard heating elements in numerous locations appear to have been installed in a higher than normal position resulting in separations between end caps and underlying floor.

11. The ¾" Pressure & Temperature (P&T) relief valve located on the top right portion of boiler needs to have a ¾" pipe extension installed and terminating in a location specified by the manufacturer.

12. The ¾" P&T valve located on the domestic hot water tank needs to have a ¾" pipe extension which terminates in a location specified by the manufacturer.

13. When removing the front boiler panel there is excessive dust and dirt (apparently from construction) visible on internal components including dust visible inside the draft inducer motor. The boiler is recommended to be cleaned and/or components blown off with compressed air.

14. The boiler is resting upon six (4" high) solid concrete blocks. Upon removal of the front boiler cover at least one of the visible concrete blocks (located in the middle-front) is broken.

15. According to manufacturer’s installation instructions, the Watts Backflow Preventer located over the boiler is recommended to have a ½" extension pipe installed and terminating a specified distance from the concrete floor to prevent possible injury to any persons who may be located in the vicinity of the valve vent should the valve activate (vent water) and to protect the top of boiler cabinet should the valve malfunction and leak at any time.

Plumbing system

    The following observed items should be evaluated by, and any necessary repairs made by, a licensed plumber. Any other deficient items which may be uncovered or seen by this plumber during the course of repairs should also be corrected:

1. The horizontal section of PVC drainpipe extending from the first floor bathroom sink trap to the right wall appears to run either on a level position or on a slightly upward angle.

2. There has been leakage of the kitchen sink hot supply tube fitting where it connects to the faucet supply pipe. This is resulting in corrosion on the upper and lower compression fitting nuts and supply tube.

3. A 2" horizontal section of PVC drain pipe located under the kitchen sink extending from the trap to the back wall runs on an improper upward angle. A PVC escutcheon located on the pipe at the back wall cannot be placed tightly against the wall due to a fitting extending from the wall opening.

4. In several locations visible within the basement there are copper fittings that are starting to corrode, possibly due to lack of removal of excess soldering paste after the soldering operation was completed.

5. Certain PVC vent pipes exposed in the attic space above insulation may be improperly joined where at least one coupling and joining of two 3" pipes is crooked. All vent pipes located in the attic should be inspected to verify that all run on correct downward angles to prevent any pooling of condensation within the pipes which could freeze during extremely cold weather resulting in breakage of the piping.

Electrical system

    The following observed items should be evaluated by, and any necessary repairs made by, a licensed electrician. Any other deficient items which may be uncovered or seen by this electrician during the course of repairs should also be corrected:

1. No bonding of main cold water copper plumbing pipe was observed to electrical system ground.

2. The front doorbell button does not activate the doorbell. When observing a junction box feeding the apparent doorbell transformer (affixed to the box) located overhead in the basement in the vicinity of the front door, the box is secured to a piece of plywood which is, in turn, apparently secured to a floor joist. Romex wire conductors and apparent low voltage doorbell wire conductors are sandwiched between the piece of plywood and the floor joist.

3. Receptacles are loose in numerous locations throughout the dwelling as observed when plugging in a three-prong tester. In at least one observed location cracking of the plastic cover plate has occurred at the plate mounting screw location due to apparent receptacle movement.

4. Numerous cover plates throughout the dwelling, including the stainless steel range receptacle plate do not have tight screws but rather screws can be loosened/tightened with a fingernail.

5. A two-gang light switch box located in the foyer front wall may be improperly installed as indicated by the switchplate which is protruded from, and not tight against the wall.

6. A three-prong receptacle located behind the refrigerator and one located to the left of the kitchen sink are both defective where a three-prong plug cannot be plugged into the bottom portion due to an apparent bent metal conductor visible in the ground hole opening.

7. A receptacle located in the second floor left staircase wall (at the top of the steps) is protruded from the wall at the bottom of receptacle.

8. Three-prong receptacles located over the sinks of two second-floor bathrooms are not GFCI protected as determined when using a hand-held tester.

The following was observed with respect to painted surfaces and overall quality of the paint job.

1. When observing painted woodwork located throughout the dwelling with the use of a bright light, there seems to be an unevenness of paint color and apparent streaking of finished painted surfaces. This may have been intentional to give the appearance of an "antique" look, or it may be the result of inadequate paint coverage (i.e., insufficient number of layers of finish coats of paint).

2. Paint, paint spatters and paint residue left from the apparent wiping of paint off unpainted surfaces was observed in numerous locations and on numerous components throughout the dwelling. Following is a list of various locations where paint, paint spatters and/or apparent paint residue was observed:

2.1. Along the front door interior bottom rubber weatherstrip.

2.2. On the majority of door hinges located throughout the dwelling.

2.3. On numerous lockset striker plates located on door jambs throughout the dwelling.

2.4. On various smoke detector bases and in at least one location on the smoke detector itself (where apparently hit by a paint roller).

2.5. Around the perimeter of hardwood floors when looking closely using a bright light.

2.6. Along the edges of kitchen cabinets and along edges of cabinet moldings adjoining the walls.

2.7. On the top edges of countertop backsplashes where a light colored residue remains on the frosted-type Formica finish.

2.8. When feeling along the tops of baseboard heating units paint spatters seem to be present in certain locations.

2.9. When feeling inside one-piece tub/shower units apparent paint spatters can be felt on the sidewall surfaces of the tub portion of unit. Excessive spatters can be felt around the top edges of both tub/shower units. In the master bath at least two drops of paint are visible on the bottom surface of tub (one large drop, one small drop).

2.10. On the range receptacle and associated stainless steel cover plate.

Hardwood flooring

    The following concerns were observed with respect to the hardwood flooring located throughout the living room, dining room, kitchen and front foyer:

1. In a location under the range there is a chip in the upper wear layer veneer.

2. The flooring located along the left and right sides of the range opening remains unfinished where separations exist between the edge of flooring and sides of adjacent cabinets which could possibly remain noticeable after a range is installed.

3. Hardwood flooring sections in various locations throughout the living and dining rooms have been installed with adjoining butt ends being in close proximity to one another as opposed to having butt ends of sections staggered a distance apart.

4. Hardwood flooring appears to be installed tightly against certain walls which may be problematic if expansion of flooring occurs during periods of higher humidity than was present at the time of floor installation. Some expansion and binding of flooring may have already occurred as there appears to be some buckling or raising of certain adjoined butt ends which are visible when standing inside the front door and observing the hallway floor leading to the kitchen and when viewing the portion of kitchen floor just beyond the hallway where the thin top veneer along affected butt edges appears to be raised. Any problems with respect to expansion and binding of any improperly installed flooring may eventually result in chipping or breakage of any raised veneer edges.

5. A separation exists between the ends of hardwood flooring panels and base of the right patio door. A finish molding is recommended to be installed in this location.

6. There is chipped veneer (damage) on the surface of flooring in a location to the right of the patio door (at the base of colonial door casing).

Kitchen

1. The corner carousel cabinet door needs adjustment to line up the inside corner of door with upper and lower cabinet inside corners and to make the spaces between the left side of door and right side of door and cabinet opening parallel and equidistant.

2. The Formica countertop located to the left of the refrigerator has a raised "bump" in Formica that can be felt when running a hand over the counter surface in a location 4" from the front edge and approximately 12" from the right edge. This countertop also has a scratch in the Formica surface located along the right edge in a location approximately 1½" from the backsplash.

3. There are scratches in the main Formica countertop in a location approximately 6" to the left of the sink and 6" from the front edge where the scratches are in a circular fashion measuring approximately 7" in diameter.

4. Caulking applied between the main countertop backsplash and the adjacent back wall has been improperly applied along that right countertop portion located under the right receptacle where there are separations in caulking.

5. Toe kicks on exposed cabinet ends extend approximately 3/8" beyond the sides of cabinets and are designed to fit tightly together when adjoining cabinets. When a cabinet side is used as an end cabinet then the additional toe kick length is recommended to be cut off flush with the cabinet side plane. Removal of toe kick extensions may be problematic as the hardwood floor may be damaged or non-existent under these extensions.

6. The veneer on the left end lower cabinet located along the back wall is damaged just above the toe kick offset. The hardwood floor veneer is damaged adjacent to the cabinet side wall and near the toe kick. The toe kick itself seems to be broken on the end as it is loose.

7. The upper left end cabinet (over the left end of sink countertop) is damaged along the bottom portion approximately ½" from the wall where the veneer is chipped.

8. The upper cabinet located over the left side of sink is damaged on the bottom where the particle board and veneer are broken on the bottom in a location approximately 1¼" from the bottom and extending a distance from the back wall approximately 6".

9. The vertical molding located along the left end of upper cabinet to the left of the refrigerator does not meet the adjacent left wall.

10. The vertical molding located along the right end of upper cabinet over the refrigerator does not meet the adjacent right wall.

First floor bath

1. There is an approximate ¾" separation between the right side of the first floor bathroom oak sink cabinet and the adjacent sheetrock wall. When viewing the wall surface beyond the front of the cabinet the sheetrock is unsightly where the wall does not appear to be finished. At the base of the cabinet the toe-kick right end does not meet the right wall colonial baseboard.

2. Vinyl floor covering appears to be improperly installed where it is starting to curl along the sink cabinet kick panel.

1. There is a major chip in the left-back portion of the cast iron sink.

2. There is a scratch (approximately 3" long) in the gel coat of the one piece tub/shower unit in a location at the bottom of the tub, left end.

3. Caulking applied at the right end of countertop backsplash is unsightly in appearance due to the way the caulk was applied.

4. There is adhesive residue or discoloration along the bottom front edge (near the floor) of the one piece tub/shower unit. This is recommended to be completely cleaned off and then the edge of adjoining vinyl floor is recommended to be caulked with clear silicone to prevent water from entering under the edge of floor.

5. The left end of the sink cabinet toe kick is recommended to be cut off flush with the plane of the cabinet side.

Left-back bedroom

1. There is a vertical crack in sheetrock extending approximately 14" below the bottom-right corner of back window unit down to the baseboard heating element.

2. The wall-to-wall carpeting edge located under the back wall baseboard heating unit is properly cut near both ends, however along the midsection of unit the carpet has been cut approximately 1" short which may result in eventual fraying of the carpet in this location.

Right-back bedroom

1. There is a vertical crack in sheetrock extending approximately 14" below the midsection of the back window unit down to the baseboard heating element.

2. The door binds when approximately 2" from the closed position and when closing the door this binding causes bending (movement) of the hinges.

3. The wall-to-wall carpeting edge located along the back wall baseboard heating unit is curled up in front of the back of unit (under the heating fins) which may result in inefficient air movement associated with the baseboard heat.

Master bedroom and Master bath

1. In the sliding door closet, there are at least two popped sheetrock screws on the lower right wall. Various marks on the back wall and several unpainted wall corners need painting.

2. The master bath closet door does not close properly without binding and causing bending (movement) of the hinges.

3. The bathroom door itself does not close properly without binding and causing bending (movement) of the hinges.

4. The vinyl floor installation has a visible seam extending left-to-right across the toilet alcove in a location approximately 6" back from the front edge of toilet. This seam is separated, is not sealed and the vinyl is already beginning to raise along portions of this seam. Technically, one piece of vinyl should have been used throughout the entire bathroom (with no seams).

5. The toilet supply shutoff valve has been installed in an awkward position with the shutoff handle in an unreachable place facing the back wall.

6. The edge of vinyl flooring adjoining the one piece tub/shower unit is already starting to raise (curl). Any edge of vinyl flooring in this location should be sealed with clear silicone to prevent water entrance below the edge of vinyl.

7. The toe kick extending beyond the right side of sink cabinet is recommended to be cut off flush with the plane of the cabinet right side.

8. The wall-to-wall carpeting edge located along the front wall baseboard heating unit is curled up in front of the back of unit (under the heating fins) which may result in inefficient air movement associated with the baseboard heat.

Attic space

1. The house attic space is ventilated through full length soffit vents on both the front and back eaves and through a ridge vent.

2. The existing attic ventilation may not be sufficient for this climate as the ridge vent may not be adequate to provide ample air circulation throughout the attic. An engineer is recommended to be employed to determine if additional attic ventilation is required.

3. Bathroom exhaust fans appear to lack proper venting as the apparent flexible duct to be used for venting is visible in the attic space half hanging out of the box (original packaging). A plastic adapter that is secured via duct tape onto the end of flexible duct is part of a ceiling exhaust fan and includes a one way flap to prevent air from blowing back into the ceiling fan. It appears that the ceiling exhaust fans are presently being vented into the attic space, below the fiberglass insulation, and fan installation is not complete.

4. Fiberglass insulation was not in place during the inspection over the attic access sheetrock panel.

1. Wall framing around the perimeter of the basement back window is improper with respect to the following:

1.1. The top of left jack stud does not come into contact with (does not support) the bottom of left end of header.

1.2. The top of the header is not installed tightly against (in contact with), and is therefore not properly supporting, the overlying upper wall plate.

2. A double joist hanger and two single joist hangers visible overhead in a location over the bottom of basement steps are improperly installed in locations on a header and on two floor joists located near this header where the bottoms of structural members do not rest on the associated bottom surface of joist hanger.

3. Certain joist hangers located along both sides of the central main carrying beam (visible overhead in the basement) are not properly installed where the joist bottoms are not bearing upon the bottom of joist hangers.

4. Roofing nails used to secure top steel plates of four vertical support columns to the underside of the main central carrying beam are recommended to be replaced with lag screws (or screws) large enough in diameter to just fit into the plate holes and installed into pilot holes drilled into the beam bottom.

5. The basement door Schlage lockset is improperly installed where the latch plate is not flush with the edge of the door; rather the bottom of plate is protruded from the door edge.

6. The exposed kraft facing on insulation located on the framed basement walls in the right-back corner and along the right wall can easily ignite and is recommended by the manufacturer to be covered with a suitable thermal barrier (i.e., sheetrock, plywood).

7. In numerous locations throughout the dwelling interior door jambs and associated colonial door casings are cut short and do not meet the floor.

8. Various bi-fold closet doors located throughout the dwelling do not seem to be properly installed or properly adjusted as they do not stay in the fully closed position.

9. In numerous locations throughout the dwelling interior door lockset handles are extremely loose. In various locations simply closing certain doors results in a binding of the latch unit when contacting the striker plate. This binding will most likely result in premature wear of the (already loose) locksets.

10. In certain locations throughout the dwelling lockset striker plates are installed crooked, improperly installed with respect to height of plate relative to lockset latch position and/or do not fit (are not installed) correctly into the mortise that has been made in the door jamb.

11. The basement door has been improperly mortised at the middle hinge. The mortises at the top and bottom hinges are improper where the wood is mortised all the way through the door rather than stopping along the long edge of hinge.

12. Toilet bowl bolt covers are missing on all three toilets.

13. A sturdy handrail is recommended to be installed on both the upper portion of main staircase and in the basement stairwell.

14. The sheetrock finish located to the right of the right patio door colonial casing is rough – extending a distance approximately 14" up from the bottom of wall. In this location, apparent caulking installed between the colonial casing and baseboard appears to be unprofessionally applied.

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