Two Sheet Skiff – Construction

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Next we cut the external chine logs to 1-Ό” x 5/8” thick.  I spent some extra money here on the best clear, straight-grained pine I could find thinking knots may cause the log to snap during bending.  5/8” seemed to be the thickest we could get away with without breaking as we bent them around the hull.  We decided to add the logs after stem glue-up so we would have a clean log-to-stem transition – we could cut the logs to the correct bevel to fit the stem area.  It results is a nice, clean look but it may be a bit more difficult than pre-attaching logs because you need to wrestle with a flimsy hull.

 

              

 

 

It occurred to me you could never own enough clamps.  I bet I’m not the first to have this thought.  I found it easier to get a tight fit at the transome by keeping the log long and using a strap to pull the end tight to the hull – worked great.  After the PL dried, we cut the logs flush.

 

              

 

 

After the logs dried we planned them flush to get a tight fit for the bottom, both in and out.  We simply used a straight edge and sighted the angle.  We used a hand plane with a sharp blade.  It proved to be far easier than I expected.

 

         

 

 

Next we slathered the logs with PL and carefully droped the bottom on.  We nailed the bottom on with 7/8” stainless brads (only thing I could find at the home center).  The nails really pulled the bottom on tight and we got a nice, even bead of PL squeezed out inside and out.  I hope the non-ring nails don’t work out over time.  Next time I’ll mail-order bronze ring-nails.

 

 

 

After the PL dried, we trimed the squeeze-out with a razor knife so a router bit could use the chine log to ride on when we trimmed the bottom.

 

                looking good!

 

 

Two Sheet Construction - Page 3

 

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