Compression Rod Bushing Replacement

These bushings are located on the lower control arms at the rear of the compression rods where they mount to the frame. These bushings are part of the assembly that connects the lower A arms to the frame. Originally they are made of rubber but over time they will harden and rot due to the elements. Replacing them with polyurethane is a good way to insure that you will not have to replace them again. This is a fairly straightforward procedure using basic tools. Depending on how old your vehicle is will also determine how badly nuts and bolts and such have rusted. I had to use two breaker bars hooked together to break free the nuts that mount the compression rod to the lower link on mine. (This was after spraying with Liquid Wrench) You may or may not encounter these same problems but you should be prepared.
Difficulty = 2/10

• jack, jackstands, wheel chocks
• 24mm open/box wrench (socket won't fit)
• 22mm socket and ratchet
• breaker bar (in my case, two of them)
• hammer
• Liquid Wrench
• Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings stock # 7.7106G, applications for: 87-95 Pathfinder, 86-1/2 – 97 Pickup (both 2 and 4wd) or OEM bushings

1. Spray the all three bolts associated with the compression rod assembly with Liquid Wrench.
2. Loosen lug nuts on front wheels (don't remove them yet) and chock rear wheels.
3. Put jack under the jack point and raise vehicle so that the front tire comes off the ground.
4. Place jackstand under frame and remove lug nuts and wheel.

5. Repeat on other side.
6. Start on one side first. Take jack and place under hub. Raise jack to support the weight of the hub otherwise the bolts that hold the compression rod to the a-arm will bind. Do NOT jack so high that you lift the truck off the jackstands. You only need to raise it a couple of inches (you can always raise it higher if the bolts won't come out).
7. Using 24mm wrench, remove 24mm nut on the end of the compression rod. This may be VERY hard to remove.
8. Remove the bolt and pay attention to the orientation and location of all washers and bushings (this will be important later). Rockjaw's note: You can always refer to the otherside of the truck if needed.
9. Use 22mm socket and breaker bar (two if neeeded) to remove the two bolts that hold the compression rod to the lower a-arm. They may be VERY hard to remove.
10. The stock bushings (as do the replacement ones) fit over a metal sleeve that in turn fits over the compression rod. You may need to hammer the washer off to get the sleeve off.
11. Slide the compression rod out of its mount and inspect for any damage. Replace if needed (should be fine).
12. Slide the old washer, new sleeve on and one of the bushings (instructions with the bushings indicate which way they should face) and begin re-assembly.
New and old parts for comparison

13. Re-assemble in the reverse order of removal.
14. The two nuts (22mm) that mount the compression rod to the lower link should be torqued to 87~108 ft. lbs.* and the large 24mm nut that mounts the assembly to the frame should be 87~116 ft. lbs. (*Torque specs as suggested from Haynes manual)

15. Lower jack and re-inspect to make sure everything is in order.
16. Repeat procedure on other side.
17. Replace wheels, lower truck and test drive.

An unrelated side note: I started this project on a sunny but cold day in Nov. I had just recently purchased a pair of Mechanix gloves and this was the first chance I had to try them out. I must say that I was very pleased with them. Provided just enough warmth to keep my fingers from getting numb but allowed enough "feel" that I was able to handle all tools and parts with no problem. I pretty much forgot I was wearing them. And although this was not a very messy job (just the Liquid Wrench) I didn't have to scrub the hell out of my hands to get them clean after. I would highly recommend a pair even if you do not have to contend with cold weather. Have seen them advertised at AutoZone for $19.99, which is a good price.