Automotive Customizers Idler Arm Brace Install

Submitted by Robert Morawski

OK here we go. The need for the idler arm brace is due to the inherent weakness of any IFS equipped vehicle. The idler arm holds the main tie rod (centerlink) in place with relation to the frame and is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. It looks similar to a pitman arm. The other option to strengthen the IFS steering setup is to replace the OEM idler arm with a Moog idler arm. I do not know of anyone that has modified a idler arm brace to work in conjunction with a Moog idler arm. (Rockjaw's Note: This brace WILL NOT work with the Moog idler arm) I purchased the idler arm brace two years ago through Automotive Customizers for 29.95. The price may have changed. Contact them for availability and pricing. If you have additional questions e-mail me. Have fun and keep the rubber side down!
Difficulty = 1/10

• socket driver
• 10mm + 17mm + 19mm(x2) sockets
• jack and jack stand
• lug wrench
• possibly a grinder, either angle or bench

1. You will need to remove the skid plate to hold the head of the bolts on the other side of the frame; otherwise the nuts will just spin. The two nuts attached to the frame are 19mm, and the single nut at the base of the idler arm is 17mm. The 10mm bolts hold the skid plate on.
2. Remove passenger front tire for better access to the idler arm. Be sure to use jack stands!
3. Remove the 2 19mm nuts and 1 17mm nut.


4. See if the brace will fit without modification. Skip to step 8 if it fits.


5. Trim the brace as needed.
6. As you can see, I had to break out the angle grinder to chop off about 3/4 of an inch of material to get it to fit.
7. The red circle shows where I needed to trim some of the material away. Also notice that the bottom of the brace does hang down a bit. Depending on your wheeling style, you may or may not be concerned with this.


8. Install brace, the 2 19mm nuts, and 1 17mm nut.


9. Install tire and skid plate.
10. Go Wheeling and test it!