Story and Photography by Scott A. Williams 
My wife and
daughter would sleep all day given the opportunity. Some Sundays they get the
chance. At first light, I head out solo in search of twisty roads and a diner
breakfast along the way. Both can be found in abundance in Western
Massachusetts.
Western Mass is a
world away from Boston. We don't "pahk our cahs in the yahd" out
here. The Berkshires and surrounding hill towns would probably remind non-New
Englanders more of Vermont than Massachusetts.
And unlike
Eastern Mass – where any motorized excursion can quickly become a congested
ordeal – out here there are open spaces and some really great roads. When I
feel like Western Mass with a twist, this route is perhaps my
favorite. Using Westfield as the
start/finish line, the route heads west on U.S. 20. Just beyond the town line
in Russell, turn left on Route 23. Over the next 43 miles there is a
smattering of towns but no traffic lights until you reach Great Barrington.
Best of all, it's twisty.
"Ward, have you seen the Beaver?" "Check the den, June."
Especially
when heading out at first light, keep an eye peeled for wildlife. On a recent
ride there was fresh road kill in the forms of a white tailed deer, a wild
turkey, and, judging by the striped remains, a large raccoon. On other trips
to this area I've seen a black bear (standing on its hind legs to get a look
at me), beaver, coyotes, and other critters.
To
keep the emphasis on roads that twist, turn left beyond the center of
Monterey onto Route 57 East and ride along Lake Buel and the Buck River. In
the village of New Boston, head north on Route 8 which parallels the
Farmington River. There are several places to pull off Route 8 for a rest and
scenery.
Horses are dressed for a brisk November morning along Route 57 in the
village of New Boston.
In
Otis pick up 23 West again and head back along your original route, to Great
Barrington. There you'll encounter a handsome, old-style New England downtown
with red-brick facades and tree-lined sidewalks. The Neighborhood Diner
serves up breakfast good and fast.
After loading up on cholesterol, carbs, and caffeine, continue to
Hillsdale, New York and shoot north on Route 22. Riding this sweeping
two-lane around hills and past fields helps one appreciate that agriculture
is indeed the Empire State's largest industry. At Stephentown a right on
Route 43 East returns you to Massachusetts then meanders along the west
branch of the Green River.
In 1895, the Newsboy Monument was presented to the people
of Great Barrington by William L. Brown,
who was a town
resident and part owner
of the original New York Daily News.
As a former paper boy, I
give a nod whenever I ride past.
In
Williamstown, 43 ends at Route 2. The beautiful campus of Williams College is
just up the hill to the west. My route heads east to the section of Route 2
known as the Mohawk Trail. A worthwhile side trip starts with a right turn in
North Adams onto Notch Road. Follow signs for the state reservation and in 20
minutes or so you'll reach the summit of Mt. Greylock, at 3,491 feet the highest
point in Massachusetts.
Returning
to Route 2, head east through downtown North Adams then begin to ascend the
Mohawk Trail. One noteworthy curve is the famous "Hairpin Turn,"
clearly signposted as such. Keep your speed down and revs up as you turn hard
right and up hill. Near the top of the western summit, pull over for a great
view of the region you just passed through.
It's bright, sunny, and 36 degrees atop Mt. Greylock.
Further
on is Florida, a Massachusetts town that often records the coldest
temperature in the Commonwealth. The road through the Savoy Mountain and
Mohawk Trail State Forests is mostly steep, well-engineered, downhill curves.
It's also prime black bear country, with one of the highest concentrations of
Ursus americanus found in North America. There are several well-marked
laybys where you can take a break and observe wildlife along the Deerfield
River. During a dry summer, you may be able to walk across the river, stone
to stone.
A
few miles past the center of Charlemont, head south on Route 112. If hunger
or nature is calling, take the short diversion into Shelburne Falls, another
old New England downtown with restaurants, working artisan studios, a unique
geological phenomenon known as glacial potholes, and the very lovely Bridge
of Flowers spanning the Deerfield River to Buckland.
Back
on 112, twist and turn south through woods and small towns. During the fall
and spring sugaring seasons, High Hopes Farm in Worthington serves up a tasty
low-frills brunch featuring fresh maple syrup. Further along the Knightville
Dam is worth a stop, too. At the terminus of Route 112 in Huntington, turn
left on U.S. 20 to complete the 200-mile circuit back in Westfield.
From there I zip
on home to Wilbraham in time for lunch. Some Sundays, the wife and girl are
up and about by then.
-
end -
The opinions expressed in this article are
those of its author. The author is not affiliated with the restaurants
or businesses described herein nor with their owners, managers, or employees.
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