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Western
Massachusetts – with a Twist
Story first published in Rider magazine, June 2005
Unauthorized reprint at Western Mass Riding
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Story and Photography by Scott A.
Williams
My wife and daughter would sleep all day given the opportunity. Some Sundays they get the chance. At first light, I head out solo in search of twisty roads and a diner breakfast along the way. Both can be found in abundance in Western Massachusetts. Western Mass is a world away from Boston. We don't "pahk our cahs in the yahd" out here. The Berkshires and surrounding hill towns would probably remind non-New Englanders more of Vermont than Massachusetts. And unlike Eastern Mass – where any motorized excursion can quickly become a congested ordeal – out here there are open spaces and some really great roads. When I feel like Western Mass with a twist, this route is perhaps my favorite. Using Westfield as the start/finish line, the route heads west on U.S. 20. Just beyond the town line in Russell, turn left on Route 23. Over the next 43 miles there is a smattering of towns but no traffic lights until you reach Great Barrington. Best of all, it's twisty. Especially when heading out at first light, keep an eye peeled for wildlife. On a recent ride there was fresh road kill in the forms of a white tailed deer, a wild turkey, and, judging by the striped remains, a large raccoon. On other trips to this area I've seen a black bear (standing on its hind legs to get a look at me), beaver, coyotes, and other critters. To keep the emphasis on roads that twist, turn left beyond the center of Monterey onto Route 57 East and ride along Lake Buel and the Buck River. In the village of New Boston, head north on Route 8 which parallels the Farmington River. There are several places to pull off Route 8 for a rest and scenery.
In Otis pick up 23 West again and head back along your original route, to Great Barrington. There you'll encounter a handsome, old-style New England downtown with red-brick facades and tree-lined sidewalks. The Neighborhood Diner serves up breakfast good and fast. After loading up on cholesterol, carbs, and caffeine, continue to Hillsdale, New York and shoot north on Route 22. Riding this sweeping two-lane around hills and past fields helps one appreciate that agriculture is indeed the Empire State's largest industry. At Stephentown a right on Route 43 East returns you to Massachusetts then meanders along the west branch of the Green River. In Williamstown, 43 ends at Route 2. The beautiful campus of Williams College is just up the hill to the west. My route heads east to the section of Route 2 known as the Mohawk Trail. A worthwhile side trip starts with a right turn in North Adams onto Notch Road. Follow signs for the state reservation and in 20 minutes or so you'll reach the summit of Mt. Greylock, at 3,491 feet the highest point in Massachusetts.
"Ward, have you seen the Beaver?" "Check the den, June." Returning to Route 2, head east
through downtown North Adams then begin to ascend the Mohawk Trail. One
noteworthy curve is the famous "Hairpin Turn," clearly signposted
as such. Keep your speed down and revs up as you turn hard right and up hill.
Near the top of the western summit, pull over for a great view of the region
you just passed through. Further on is Florida, a Massachusetts town that often records the coldest temperature in the Commonwealth. The road through the Savoy Mountain and Mohawk Trail State Forests is mostly steep, well-engineered, downhill curves. It's also prime black bear country, with one of the highest concentrations of Ursus americanus found in North America. There are several well-marked laybys where you can take a break and observe wildlife along the Deerfield River. During a dry summer, you may be able to walk across the river, stone to stone. A few miles past the center of Charlemont, head south on Route 112. If hunger or nature is calling, take the short diversion into Shelburne Falls, another old New England downtown with restaurants, working artisan studios, a unique geological phenomenon known as glacial potholes, and the very lovely Bridge of Flowers spanning the Deerfield River to Buckland. Back on 112, twist and turn south through woods and small towns. During the fall and spring sugaring seasons, High Hopes Farm in Worthington serves up a tasty low-frills brunch featuring fresh maple syrup. Further along the Knightville Dam is worth a stop, too. At the terminus of Route 112 in Huntington, turn left on U.S. 20 to complete the 200-mile circuit back in Westfield. From there I zip on home to Wilbraham in time for lunch. Some Sundays, the wife and girl are up and about by then.
of Great Barrington by William L. Brown,
who was a town resident and part owner of the original
New York Daily News. As a former paper boy, I give a nod
whenever I ride past. Reader Feedback in
Rider Magazine: “I received my first issue of Rider yesterday and could not put it down until I had read it cover to cover. I enjoyed Scott Williams Favorite Ride about riding in the Berkshires. It brought back memories of an overnight trip I took down to Mount Greylock and Bascom Lodge on my Kawasaki KLR250 via back roads, dirt roads and cow paths last year. Yes, the view from Florida is grand. The article really has me jazzed about an upcoming dual-sport ride in that area. Two hundred miles and four states, compliments of The Berkshire Trail Riders – woohoo!” Mike Justiss Sweden, Maine The opinions expressed in this article are
those of its author. The author is not affiliated with the restaurants
or businesses described herein nor with their owners, managers, or employees. |
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