Spark's Bateau V10 Project
"Lillian"
Last Update: April 29, 2004
Status:Done
Test rowing before paint.
Sail setup and rigging of "Lillian"
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Spark's Bateau V10 Project |
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PART 1 - CUTTING OUT and ASSEMBLING Gluing a butt block, 45 degree angle on the butt, plastic to keep the epoxy from sticking to the clamp blocks. Clamping a butt joint again 2 sides at the same time...bought 25 clamps - on sale for $1.99 at Harbor Freight!! I used 2 doors on spliced 2x 4's on sawbucks for a nice long table. Rightside up from the port bow, no floor. Rightside up from the starboard stern, no floor. Upside down from the stern, no floor. Upside down closeup of the bow, no floor. Another of the bow, upside down, no floor View from the stern, upsidedown. Things were good up to this point - an early view from the bow, upside down. Here's where some trouble starts. After cutting and hacking, got it down to this on the bow. Nice shape, still a hole there - from the bow, upside down. Head-on shot of the problem. The fix, from the ouside looking up from the bottom to the bow, epoxied in a little piece of ply. I'll fill, grind, sand, e/fg - this'll be fine. A view of the fix from inside the bow, rough filled for now, it'll be under the deck/seat View from the starboard stern View from the starboard bow Looking straight ahead, from the transom/stern Another off the starboard stern. PART 2 - SOME TRANSOM WORK After epoxy-tacking the whole frame (except the transom), I decided to take the transom out for some custom work. You can see how it all holds together pretty well with just tacking fillets. A shot from the starboard stern with the transom out. Another shot from the stern with the transom out. My design, my choice, for the bracing on the transom...this'll make more sense later. The new transom, and a pic from the side. Dry-fitting the stern seat...I like to skip ahead a little for inspiration - and to check fit! The original transom was 3/8". This mod is 3/8 + 3/4 and I'll probably put a plate on yet on the inside for the motor mount - metal or hardwood. The pintles or gudgeons for the rudder will go outside. (Much of the fun of building a boat is coming up with custom mods so - have fun!!) The boat is all epoxy "tack-welded" together now so I can remove all of the plastic wire ties...it's very stable. PART 3 - FILLETING and FIBERGLASS TAPING All of the inside floor/bulkhead taping is done. A shot of the transom all e/fg'd in. Next, turning it over, belt sanding the bottom seams and taping, but first: PART 4 - SEQUENCE OF BUILDING AND INSTALLING THE DAGGERBOARD TRUNK The pieces cut out, covered with f/g cloth and assembly begun. A better shot showing the f/g cloth. Both sides together. Marking the floor for cutting with the trunk in place. Hole cut in the boat for the trunk. Routed edges of the front end and fiberglassed. The trunk being epoxied in. Extra length sticking out the bottom. Another shot sticking out of the bottom - boat turned over. Trunk epoxied in and the side struts added (epoxied and clampled) The bottom gaps epoxy filled and ground down - awaiting f/g tape. The daggerboard trunk is in. The outside chines, keel, bow and stern are angle-grinded smooth and ready for taping. Closeup of the bow seat with access port, and the breasthook. A variation of the midseat...I strayed from the plans a bit. The stern knees and transom motor strengthener. The rubrail is 3 layers of 1/4" ply cut to 1 1/2" strips. The rubrail strips are cutout, and clamp/glued like this, or optionally like this. Another stray from the plans...I put 2 layers on the outside and another layer inside custom fitted between the bulkheads - kind of ties the butt splices into something and makes the rubrail look like it caps the sheer (top of the sides). PART 5 - MAST STEP AND MAST PARTNER  I wanted a removeable mast partner so I could still use the front seat when rowing, fishing or motoring.Mast partner bracket...no holes drilled yet. Shot of the mast step...a piece to capture the mast will be attached to this...the mast would be exposed. Shot of the mast step modified. Shot of the mast partner. Another shot of the mast partner. Under the mast partner - using barrel locks. Another shot of the mast partner showing how it's reinforced - it's 1/2"ply with dadoed 3/4" inch stock along the edges for strength, and 3/4" ply in the middle to reinforce the mast. We'll see how this all works. A cardboard mockup, jar lid and stick for a mockup. I wanted more something like this but opted for simple for the time being. PART 6 - RUDDER AND DAGGERBOARD
Daggerboard cut out and belt sanded to foil shapeDagger board handle is made and attached. Rudder cut out and belt sanded. Rudder ready to be fiberglass taped. Both rudder and daggerboard had all edges fiberglassed and epoxied - quite messy. Rudder and daggerboard done...awaiting paint. Finished, installed rudder... first image, second image, and a third. See link below for the hardware used. PART 7 - MAST AND SPARS
Mast is made from 3 laminated pieces...the sprit or boom - depending on what I use it for - is made of 2 laminated pieces.The mast parts ready to be glued - pine I think. The mast cut down to an octagon on the table saw and edges being smoothed down with surform tool. The spars being stained and varnished on a quickmade rack using sawbucks,clamps, wood strips and 3" screws to rest them spars on. PART 8 - PAINTING, PRIMER AND FINISH
I'm going to try to get by with acrylic latex exterior primer with semigloss acrylic latex exterior finish. I roughened/sanded the whole thing down with 100 grit.There are several reasons for not using more expensive paint. First I only used BC ext plywood, the boat is an experiment and learning process for more to come. Second, I will probably only use it 8 or 10 times a year, it's kept covered in the garage and doesn't sit in the water all the time. Third, it will only be in fresh water. Fourth, it will be easy to touch it up if necessary, it dries quick, cheap, available, I can use multiple colors economically. Fifth, I take care of my stuff. Time will tell.The boat will be cream color on the inside, blue on the outside, with a 3rd rust/red 2 or 3" stripe just under the gunnels. Some parts will be left natural (called "bright"), coated with spar varnish for UV protection. The inside from bow with primer. The inside from stern with primer. The inside from stern with primer. The bottom being primed. Shot of stuff that is done so far. And another. From the stern, port side. The hull being painted. And another view. Just need to touch up the gunnels. How the finished mast system works. You can also see the daggerboard plug in place. From the port side. PART 9 - TRAILERING, MISCELLANEOUS TASKS AND COMMENTS Quick note on the sail....I will probably try a marconi sail rig first instead of a sprit...I just like the looks of it and am used to sailing that kind. I got some white heavy duty polytarp here to experiment with - $15...at least with white it won't be too obvious that I'm a cheapskate. They have other colors that you don't usually see...check it out.
With three in the boat the water was up to about 2 inches below the seat in the daggerboard slot. Water does come up in it if you bounce any. Here's a "plug" to use for when rowing and when you don't have the daggerboard in. Will have a little rubber "gasket" around to help seal. Daggerboard slot plug 1...daggerboard slot plug 2. Needed a way to trailer the boat on my fold up, flatbed trailer. Here is a simple set of bunks and a v-bracket that get bolted down for trailering, and removed for storage or using the trailer for other uses. Use swim noodles or carpeting for padding. Might add a roller between the bunks to aid in sliding it on. (The bow support sits right under the forward bulkhead...the bunks sit under the rear seat) The bunks...bunks carpeted...bow support...how they layout. The V10 on a flatbed folddown trailor with the bunks/bracket, and another view, and yet another view. I read somewhere to use crushed walnut shells for non-skid. Finally found some at a pet store - they use it for bird and iguana cage liner - $5 for a 5 pound bag. Lay down the epoxy, cover with crushed shell, let cure, vacuum or clean off the loose stuff, coat with epoxy and varnish or prime and paint. Might have to sand it a little to dull it down. This is what some old time boatbuilders did. I might also try "bright" floorboards. Miscellaneous Picked up some styrofoam for flotation from my neighbors new dining room table. (Later note: I sealed a block of this stuff inside the stern seat, later took it out...had to chip it out, what a mess! Little pieces all over, static, sticks to everything .Don't bother with packing styrofoam - get the right stuff or just leave sealed compartments, which is what I'm doing now.) For the record, this V10 is being built to use all three power options: row, motor, sail. I'm not going to get real fancy with this site/descriptions...if you'd like more specific info, just send an e-mail to me...I'll be happy to respond. I am posting a lot of pics here that may seem boring but when your building your first boat I think you want to look at as much minutia as possible - at least I did. So these are the kind of shots I would like to see. Note: If you come to this site in IE on a Mac, the images might not popup, please drop me an email and let me know...I'm still working on this problem. Thanks for dropping by! |
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SOME QUICK LINKS: Tons of great boatbuilding info at the website of Frank Ellinghaus. Some ideas for kickup daggerboards - from Wooden Boat Magazine I might use it later, but a kickup rudder bracket is available from Glen-L. This is where I got the gudgeon/pintle set for a small boat rudder used on my project. A tutorial from yours truly for making your own Simple Oars. Some great home designed oars and sliding seat from Brian Walker. From the Bateau board, couple of images on spar making...posted here so I don't lose it. Where the V10 was born Bateau.com Info on the V10 at Bateau.com The old archive Bateau forums, and the new live Bateau forums - great discussions and tech support on building all Bateau boats. Interesting article for backyard boatbuilders from the Coast Guard - an Acrobat PDF...click to open, right-click to download. Site on laminating and bending wood- a lot of great information from a guy who makes homebuilt aircraft. Check it out here. See how the big boys do it...go down to the area marked "Hull Construction"...lot's of picts at each link. Fun to look at on a snowy day. A 76 footer! Visit Spark's Precision 165 The "Beagle" site, or Spark's Homepage. |
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