Remove the shift knob by pulling up firmly, there are no fasteners or threads holding it on. Take care as it requires a lot of force and will pop off suddenly, so orient yourself such that you will no smack yourself in the face with the knob when it pops off.

Remove the SMG trim piece by prying under the back edge with your fingernails. It should pop up easily. If you use a tool other than your fingernails be very careful not to mar the plastic. The grey trim piece, chrome ring, and shift boot will come off as one assembly. Disconnect the wiring harness for the shift mode button and set the assembly aside.

Remove the two screws at the rear of the shifter console trim and remove the trim piece. Disconnect the wiring harness for the switches and set the assembly aside.

Remove the two screws at the bottom of the center console trim.

Position the center console trim upside down and look for the circle with the date indicator molded into the plastic. This is where I chose to drill a hole to feed the wires through. This will place the hole underneath the cigarette snubber where it is not too visible.

Drill a 1/2 inch hole through both the center console trim and through the ash tray insert. I recommend a brad point bit for a clean cut. If using a normal bit you may want to drill a small pilot hole first. I found it easiest to drill the trim, mark the drill spot on the ash tray insert, and then remove the ash tray insert before drilling it. It is made of a harder material and you will have better control drilling it as a separate piece.

Remove the cigarette snubber and the metal piece that holds it from the ash tray insert. If you are doing the garage door opener install then you can toss the snubber in the trash, it will be replaced by the push button switch. In the photo the snubber is already long gone, did not get a photo of it installed.

Everything in this step is optional, if you are not doing the garage door opener install then move on.

Get yourself a momentary contact push button switch that will fit nicely where the cigarette snubber used to be. I found the switch shown here at Radio Shack.

Take the cover off your opener and identify the button that opens the door. Flip the circuit board over and identify the pins for this button. Test that you have the right pins by shorting them with a wire - the garage door should open. Now solder some wires to those pins, I used one pair out of a cat5 network cable.

Reassemble the opener letting the other end of the wires hang out. My opener already had a hole in the back so I ran the wires out there. You may need to drill a hole or cut a notch in your opener case to run the wires through.

Assemble the switch into the holder, then pass the wires through the center console trim and the ash tray insert. Solder or otherwise connect the wires to the switch. Heat shrink tubing over the connections will ensure that the wires do not get shorted in the future.

Push the holder back into the ash tray insert and make sure everything is lined up the way you want it.

Decide where you are going to mount the V1. I mounted mine on the passenger side of the rear view mirror. Make sure it is low enough to see through the clear part of the window, the tint could interfere with its performance.

Starting at the V1, leave a little slack and then tuck the wire in between the window and the interior trim. A flathead screwdriver helps here, and be sure to flatten out any kinks in the wire as you go along. Continue towards the passenger side, down the A pillar, and then in between the A pillar and the dash.

Once you get to the side of the dash you can gently push in on the dash and open a gap big enough to slip the wire through. The wire will come out behind the glow box, you will find it in the next step.

Remove the 6 screws securing the glove box. There are three at the top, one on each side behind the supports, and one on a tab on the lower right. Slide the glove box out and set it on the floor. There is no need to disconnect any of the wiring unless your really want to get it out of your way.

Twist the two white knobs 90 degrees to release the fuse box. It will hinge downwards exposing all of the fuses.

Look at the white legend (you can pull it out) and determine which spot you are going to use. You want a power source that is switched with the ignition key, that way you do not have to bother with turning the V1 on or off. You have a few options here - find a wire and tap into it with the connector V1 supplies, buy one of those fuses that have a power tap on them, or just insert the wire directly into an unused switched spot. I chose the latter, inserting a spade terminal into spot for the garage door opener fuse which was not present in my car. The V1 wiring harness has an inline fuse. Whichever route you choose may want to use a multimeter to ensure that you are getting switched power.

I had a hard time finding an existing screw to use as a ground point so I made my own. I drilled a 3/32 hole in the left side of the metal frame that holds the fuse box. I also mounted the V1 remote power connector on the back side of this same spot using the adhesive connector they supply. Be careful in choosing a spot to drill - the passenger airbag is just above this area and you do not want to interfere with that.

Run the wire from the V1 up over the fuse box. Run the power wire that you connected in the last step up over the fuse box as well. Secure these and the ground wire so they will not interfere with anything. Run another V1 wire from the remote power connector, through the dash, and into the center console.

Run the wire from the V1 remote power connector through the holes you drilled in the back of the center console trim and ash tray insert. Reinstall the center console trim taking care to place your garage door opener in a spot where it will not interfere with anything and will not rattle around. I wrapped some foam around mine to prevent the latter. The picture does not show the final position, I had to tuck it up under the center console a bit more in order to clear the shift console trim. Don't forget those wiring harness connections on the back of the center console trim. Like I said earlier you might want to leave the ash tray light disconnected.

Reinstall the shift console trim and SMG trim being sure to reconnect the wiring harness connections. Reinstall the shift knob, it should click into place during the last few millimeters of travel.

Plug in the V1 remote display and mount it using the adhesive connector provided. I found that it cleared the ash tray cover better if I mounted it towards the top of the ash tray rather than the bottom, that's why you can see a gap beneath the remote display.