Springer Mtn, GA to Fontana Dam, NC

Day 12, Saturday, June 3

Wallace Gap to Cold Spring Shelter, 18.9 miles

I'm awake and up at 6 AM. Slow to move. I got a good night's sleep on the bed.

Mark drives up promptly at 7:30 AM. We weigh packs with Mark's portable scale. Monty's is 38 pounds, Lydia's is 36 pounds, and mine is 41 pounds, minus the one pound Gatorade water bottle I add in a few minutes. I leave information with Jane to make reservations for us at the hiker hostel at the Nantahala Outdoor Center for Sunday night. We are going to try to make Nantahala in two days. If we do, that will put me a full day ahead.

Mark drives us up to Winding Stair Gap and we stash our packs in the woods beside the trail. He then drives us over to Wallace Gap and we hit the trail at 8:00 AM. It takes us only an hour to hike the 3.2 miles back to Winding Stair Gap. We're flying without the weight.

We saddle up and begin the long climb up Siler Bald. We've got three one-thousand feet climbs ahead of us today. After taking a short break on the way up we reach the trail to the Siler Bald Shelter at 10:50 AM. So good so far! We reach Siler Bald at 11:20 and rest a few minutes. It's only 1.7 miles now to Wayah Gap where we plan to have lunch. Phree passes us on the downhill toward the Gap.

We arrive at 12:05 PM and dive into snacks to lighten the load. We have come 9 miles in 4 hours and 5 minutes, our best long distance average for this terrain. We have 9.9 miles to go to Cold Spring. Not sure if we'll make it. We have two more difficult climbs ahead of us; Wine Spring Bald and Wayah Bald before the trail turns downhill toward Nantahala (Wesser).

The sky has been very blue and nice this morning, but as we lunch, a light cloud cover forms. The weather forecast is calling for only a slight chance of rain, but I know what a slight chance of rain means in the mountains.

Next comes the misery. The climbs up Wine Spring Bald and Wayah Bald are long and painful. We reach the summit of Wayah Bald about 3:15 PM and find an old stone observation tower on top. The view is unbelievable. You can look back down into the valley where Mark and Jane live and see their property from the top of the mountain. Phree is resting at the top. Jason shows up later.

We still have six miles to reach Cold Spring Shelter. We leave at 3:45 PM and hustle down the mountain as dark clouds are forming on the horizon. Thunder is rumbling in the distance. We make three miles the first hour downhill as the thunder closes and the breeze stiffens. We quicken our pace. Phree passes us again when we stop to put pack covers on.

Finally at 4:30 PM the storm can't wait any longer and it unleashes on us. M&L break out jackets. We huddle under a hemlock and maple tree clump for a few minutes as the rain pours down. Jason and Matthew hike past.

The temperature drops to the mid-50's. It's cold. I still haven't put on my jacket yet, and I'm soaked to the bone. Any other time I would have welcomed the rain. I'd normally break out a bar of soap and take a shower, but not today, three miles from the shelter, dog-tired after climbing and hiking over 15 miles already. When the rain slows down a little we move out with me in the lead. I can't set a very fast pace. I'm hurting, cold, and wet. We make two more miles before the sky runs out of water. We stop at Burningtown Gap at 5 PM for a much needed rest.

We look pretty dismal at this point. Wet, exhausted, and still 1.2 miles from the shelter. Uphill, of course. M&L struggle to their feet and begin to climb the hill. I follow, but I'm barely walking. My calves and lower legs won't work. It takes me almost 45 minutes to limp and climb 1.2 miles up the hill. I pass two southbound hikers who started in Harper's Ferry. They're ultralighting it. He's carrying twenty-two pounds, and she has eighteen pounds, and their averaging 20-22 miles per day. Unbelievable. They tell me the shelter ahead is full. Figures.

I finally limp into the clearing where the shelter sits. It is indeed full. The two dudes we saw yesterday at Wallace Gap are there along with Phree, Jason, and Matthew. They say they can squeeze me in if I want, but there isn't room for Monty and Lydia. Monty searches for a campsite up on the ridge while I try to get water from the spring. We're completely out of water and I think that is part of my problem.

Monty finds a spot on top and I go up to join them. It will be more comfortable for the folks in the shelter and for me not to crowd in. The hill is slick up to the campsite and I almost fall twice. M&L help me rig my tarp to the side of their tent to make a lean-to for me. It just might work out if we don't get any more rain tonight.

I slog back down the hill to pump more water while Monty finishes setting up camp. Lydia is exhausted and Monty is trying to help her be able to change into dry clothes. She just wants to go to bed. Forget supper. Back down at the shelter, Jason helps me pump water and I'm most appreciative. Pumping water is really a three-hand job. It really helps to have some help holding things in the mud. He and Matthew and I talk while I fill all of our water bottles and Platypuses.

When I get back up top, Monty boils water and we make Ramen noodles, Ramen noodles, soup and hot coffee. I'm feeling better by the minute, especially after another 400mg of V.I. We clean up, Monty hangs the food, and I organize under the lean-to before it gets too dark.

I walk up on the rocks above the campsite to watch the sunset behind me and the shadows crawl across the valley below in front of me. I write until it is too dark to see and then I limp back down to my new home for the night.