Springer Mtn, GA to Fontana Dam, NC

Day 7, Monday, May 29

Low Gap Shelter to Tray Mountain Shelter, 14.9 miles

I wake up again at 5:53 AM and get out of my sleeping bag at 6:15 AM. I pack as quietly as I can, as I'm the first one up. "Mule-boy" starts to get up as I pack. He cooks breakfast. I pass and I'm away by 7:05 AM, my earliest start yet. I've got fifteen miles today to Montray Shelter on Tray Mountain and I want to get it over with. As I hike up the hill all of the campers with the exception of the "Marietta Cowboys" are stirring or breaking camp. Only the shelter and the "Cowboys" are still asleep. I hike alone the first hour-and-a-half. I startle my first grouse of the trip. My heart skips a beat as I realize what it is. No matter how many grouse or quail you startle in your life, you never get used to that startling rush of wings taking off beside you. It sounds like a small helicopter blasting off into the air.

I stop to take a break at 8:15 AM and a much needed Mother Nature call. Monty and Lydia hike past as I'm packing back up. I catch up to them ten minutes later and we take a break at 9:15 AM at Chatahoochee Gap. Five miles in two hours and ten minutes. Pretty good and smoother terrain. "Cypress" blows by a few minutes later. "Mule-boy" wasn't kidding about his pace. I clocked him at 62 miles per hour. I was going to give him a ticket, but I'd never catch him. Unbelievable. He had his earphones on and he was jamming. "Mule-boy" passes by five minutes later and asks if we've seen "Cypress" We say we think it was him, but he went by in such a blur that we're not sure. "Mule-boy" says they plan to have lunch at Blue Mountain Shelter.

I saddle up a few minutes later and walk ahead. I'll stop at Blue Mountain for lunch myself. It's 2.1 miles to the shelter. One thing I've learned is when you are two miles from the shelter, it's really four miles, and this morning is no different. The terrain is becoming rougher again. Although it is fairly level, it takes me some time to pick my way over the boulder fields as the trail winds around the side of the mountain. I reach the shelter at 10:45 AM and enjoy a snack and a long rest. The breeze is actually cold. I take two more Advil for my legs and feet and stretch some. I get stiff very quickly in the cold breeze. I leave for Unicoi Gap at 11:35 AM. No sign of Monty and Lydia as I move on.

I reach Unicoi Gap at 12:35 PM. There sits Monty and Lydia. They must have passed me while I was resting at Blue Mountain Shelter. Monty says they hollered for me as they passed the shelter trail. Since I didn't hear them, they thought I must have hiked on, so they did too. As I'm crossing the road I spot the "Marietta Cowboys". They hiked on south from Low Gap to Hogpen Gap that morning and have driven back to pick up their other vehicles at Unicoi Gap. I'm still trying to figure out how they beat me to Unicoi?

I only stop at Unicoi for five minutes. I see three walking sticks propped up against the Unicoi gap sign. Left there by AT hikers for AT hikers. I choose one and begin the climb out of Unicoi. I stop at .6 miles to pump water from the creek and then start up the steep grade. I finally reach the top at 1:35 PM. One solid hour of climbing. The most difficult we've had by far. Unicoi is one of those names now emblazoned on my brain. I throw off my pack and lay down. Shortly Monty and Lydia climb over the top and do the same. We rest until 2:00 PM. I hike with them the rest of the afternoon. Indian Grave Gap at 2:45 PM. We stop and rest beside the road in the sun. Lydia loves the sun. I suddenly realize how little of the sun we've seen over the last week. The sky has been overcast or rainy much of the time. Even when the sun has been out, you are usually under such a thick canopy of trees that little direct sun hits you.

The next several hours are tough uphill. But the weather is gorgeous. Blue skies with big puffy clouds. Temperature in the mid/low seventies. And dry. This is the first day the trail is actually dry. We make pretty good time, the three of us. Walk, rest, walk, and rest. We make the top of Tray Mountain around 4:45 PM. Absolutely gorgeous. I take a few pictures of the flame azalea and the view and we head for the shelter. We're tired. Fifteen miles is a lot for me on this terrain. We reach the shelter at 5:15 PM.

"Cypress" and "Mule-boy" are of course already there. They've been there since 1:30 PM and 2:15 PM respectively. Wow. There are also three dudes from Orlando (Tallahassee and Orlando) there. They are out for six days from Unicoi Gap to Wallace Gap. I collapse in the open shelter spot beside "Cypress". I get water from the spring 100 yards down the hill and take a bath in the woods. A much needed bath. After two long days of hiking, it feels great to clean up a bit. I then pump water and cook supper. Noodles and grits. I'm heading into Hiawassee tomorrow and will pick up my second food box. "Mule-boy" and "Cypress" are also going into Hiawassee tomorrow to make a beer run. I may spend tomorrow night at the Hiawassee Inn with them.

One of the Tallahassee guys tries to build a fire. He is busy demonstrating his woodsman skills to the other two. He's having a hard time. I tell him it must be defective wood. Today is their first day on the trail. You can always tell first-dayers. Especially flatlands first-dayers. They are still full of enthusiasm and are almost giddy about being here. Probably how I was a week ago. They all have too much weight in their packs and have gadgets strapped everywhere including on them. After a day or so, those will disappear!

Monty and Lydia camp near one of the overlooks about fifty yards away from the shelter.

At dusk, I walk down to the overlook behind the campsites on top of the mountain. I sit on the rocks and watch darkness fall on the valley below. The air is calm and the sky clear. This is a room with a view. I smoke a cigar and write some in my journal.