Springer Mtn, GA to Fontana Dam, NC

Day 9, Wednesday, May 31

Dick's Creek Gap to Muskrat Creek Shelter, 11.6 miles

I wake up at 6 AM. I shower and I'm ready to go by 7 AM. Unfortunately, the first shuttle doesn't leave until 8 AM. "Mule-boy", "Cypress", and Andy will be on that one. Monty and Lydia, and I will catch the second one at 8:30 AM. "Mule-boy" asks me to call the Nantahala Outdoor Center and make reservations for him at the hiker hostel for Saturday and Sunday. I finally get through.

I have to find the shuttle driver at 8:40 AM. He is in hiding. He owns the motel and all he does is complain about motel guests on the drive back out to the trail. He clearly needs a vacation. We set foot on the trail at 9:02 AM and climb, climb, climb. At 11:20 AM we reach Plum Orchard Gap and rest until 11:40 AM. I'm now officially a half-day ahead of my schedule. I originally planned to be overnight here.

Above Plum Orchard Gap we hike into a covering of trees that strike a strange resemblance to being inside a cathedral. The trees are lined up like columns and the branches soar and close above us like the arches. It is heavily shaded and very quiet. Ferns decorate the aisle on both sides.

We meet Billy shortly after Plum Orchard Shelter. He and Aaron spent the night at Plum Orchard. He is now sitting on a hill beside of the trail playing his harmonica. He was hiking ahead of Aaron and had to take a crap. Aaron must have passed him, but Billy says he's been waiting for an hour on him. He grabs his pack and catches up with us as we begin a break. We stopped at 11 AM and at 1 PM for long breaks. Billy stops for a minute and presses on trying to catch Aaron and get to Standing Indian Shelter for the night. "Mule-boy" and "Cypress" are also headed to Standing Indian for the night from Dick's Creek Gap. Sixteen miles uphill. Unbelievable.

We press on for the Georgia/North Carolina line, 4.3 miles in the distance. It's the longest hike of my life. We're climbing from 2,675 feet in elevation to over 4,700 feet. We reach the NC/GA state line around 2:30 PM. I thought it would never get here. The final three miles to the shelter is the hardest hike. Uphill, steep, peak after peak. Every turn of the trail is up. We finally climb over Courthouse Bald around 4 PM. I can't walk more than 50 steps at a time before I have to stop and rest. It's my left heel and knee that hurt. My pace drags up the hill.

As we approach Muskrat Creek, there is a huge pile of bear crap in the middle of the trail. It looks fresh, and it's from a BIG bear. Not exactly what I was looking for near the shelter where we're spending the night. We finally get to Muskrat Creek Shelter at 5 PM. I'm so tired it's tough to pump water and make dinner. Plenty of Vitamin I. I make some chicken soup and then some chicken and rice and it's great. A hot meal helps warm me up. I was cool from the breeze and sweating so much.

After supper, the three of us walk back to the bear crap that is beside a rock overlook. I hang my food in a tree along the way. The overlook is one of the most awe-inspiring views I've ever witnessed. I hope my pictures turn out. It is ridgeline after ridgeline looking west all blending into a gray clouded sky with the red orange of the sun highlighting the edges. Beautiful. After a long while we head back to the shelter. Hope the bear stays away. I write in my journal and work on a new itinerary until after 9 PM. I'm a half-day and 7.3 miles ahead of schedule. Those 7.3 miles were hard earned, but I'll have the chance to rest later on if I need to. To bed at 9:15 PM. Probably too tired to worry about the mice. It's Monty and Lydia's first night in a shelter. They have tent camped so far near the shelters. It'll be a new experience for them. Not to mention worrying about the bear.