Allen Gap, NC to Watauga Lake, TN

Day 5, Sunday, May 27

Erwin, TN to Cherry Gap Shelter, 16.4 miles

I wake up at 6:45 AM and get out of bed at 7 AM. I shower, doctor my feet, and begin packing up before things get to stirring around here. I've cut a few pounds out of my pack and I'll mail them home from here. That'll help on the uphill!

Johnny shows up at 8:30 AM with laundry, but has to make a trip back to pick up some more still in the dryer. He is back at 8:50 AM and opens for business. I mail my package and settle my account. I'm packed and out the door at 9:10 AM. This is a very late start for me. I get the impression that "Uncle Johnny" does his best to hang onto folks and get them to spend more time in Erwin. I've got a long day ahead, and I wanted to be on the trail earlier than this.

"Flying Bear", Bruno, and "Jim Bowie" are leaving on bicycles for town to buy groceries as I'm leaving. They'll catch up to me later. (It actually turns out to be the last time I see them on the trip as I remain a day ahead for the rest of the trip.)

The climb out of Nolichucky Gorge is steep. I meet "Salty", a thru-hiker getting water outside his camp. He passes me later on the uphill. I finally make the top of the ridge and stop at the next shelter at 11:10 AM. "Salty" heads for the woods and I stop for lunch. He starts out ahead of me as we leave the shelter at 11:30 AM.

The trail alternates between good and rocky on the climb to Indian Grave Gap. The last one-and-a-half miles to Indian Grave Gap are great trail. The rocks are pounding my feet this morning. One disadvantage of wearing shoes instead of boots on this trip.

I reach Indian Grave Gap (3,360') on the NC/TN state line at 1:15 PM. There are horse trailers parked everywhere. Must be some good horse trails from here.

The sky is getting cloudier by the minute. Big, dark clouds. I hope it doesn't rain because if I can't get to Cherry Gap Shelter, I'll have to tarp it. Won't exactly be fun in the rain. On at 1:30 PM.

I climb to Beauty Spot and reach the top at 2:40 PM. It's a great view from here. Roan Mountain and Unaka Mountain both right in front of me. This is a great open bald that would be great for camping under an open sky. I cross the bald and head back into the trees. I pass the Deep Gap campsite at the base of the hill still determined to make it to Cherry Gap.

After taking a long break at 3:00 PM, I press on for Unaka Mountain, the real climb of the day. I reach the base of Unaka at 4 PM. It takes me almost forty-five minutes to reach the top of the mountain. While I'm resting on top I hear voices. Must be angels. I've climbed so high and I've almost expired in the process, so it must be angels. Two minutes later Linda "Giddyup", "Fried Fender", and "Almost There" walk over the hill toward me. They've slackpacked southbound from Iron Mountain Gap at 2 PM and are trying to reach Erwin tonight!

I stumble down the north side of Unaka toward Cherry Gap. The last 2.7 miles are long. Especially the last mile. As always, the last mile is the longest one.

I finally reach the shelter at 6:20 PM. There is no one here. I had expected to find "Salty". I get water from the spring, put some on to boil, and begin to clean up a little. "Salty" shows up as I'm cleaning up. I must have passed him somewhere on the trail this afternoon. "Salty" is from Tampa, Florida. He was hiking with "Mojo", a friend from home. "Mojo" left the trail for a wedding and will be back in a few days.

I cook supper and finally begin feeling normal again. A long day! This is two sixteen-mile plus days in a row over pretty tough terrain.

I'm in bed and asleep at 9:30 PM.