TR-6 Body Rotisserie

Performing auto body repairs while the body and frame are together allows you to keep everything aligned and straight. However, there finally comes a time where you need to remove the body to get to the frame or other parts which are not accessible when the body and frame are still attached. When the time came to remove the body, I wondered how I was going to store it, move it, and turn it upside down when I needed to work on the underside. While surfing auto web sites, I noticed a couple of rotisseries being used for auto restoration. After looking at the pictures, I decided to build one for my TR-6.

I haven't included a detailed set of plans for this rotisserie. I am providing a description and pictures to provide ideas for anyone who may want to construct their own.

A critical requirement was that the body could not flex or fold around the door openings while separating the frame and body and when using the rotisserie. Many of the rotisseries use the body as part of the structure which might allow the body to twist or flex. I decided to make a "frame" that would be above the body and attached to the fender mounting points using brackets and pieces of angle iron. I was particularly careful to make sure the door openings were rigidly attached to the new frame so there could be no movement resulting in twists or misalignment. Another benefit to this arrangement is that I can move the body around the garage by pulling and pushing on the rotisserie without any stresses being placed on the body.

I started by taking measurements (width and length) of the body prior to visiting the local metal scrapyard. I was extremely lucky and found several long lengths of metal that I believe was used for storage shelves in warehouses. The metal is C shaped, about 1/8" thickness, and has two rows of 1/2" holes running the entire length. I cut two pieces slightly longer than the length of the body and attached them to the body using two brackets. I attached the brackets in front and behind the door openings thereby setting the location of the "frame". I custom made the remaining sixteen brackets (eight per side) resulting in a total of twenty brackets supporting the body. The photo shows the frame attached to the door openings prior to the other brackets being made.

After I tightened all of the nuts and bolts on the two pieces, I installed shorter (four foot) sections at the front and the rear. This completed the frame and provided a means for mounting the rotating head which is the most important part of the rotisserie. The rotating head was made from galvanized fence posts that I got from the scrapyard. I bought some 9/16" nuts and bolts for locking the rotating frame in whatever position I desired. I drilled four 5/8" holes in the stationary pipe, centered and clamped nuts over the holes, and welded the nuts in place. When the rotating pipe is inside the stationary pipe, the bolts can be tightened down which will lock the rotating pipe in position.

Visible in this picture is another round pipe which serves an important function. In order to make this easy to spin, the mass of the body and the supporting frame should be equally balanced along an imaginary line drawn between the two rotating heads. If the balance is correct, you should be able to spin the body with one hand. Mine is balanced and I can spin the body with one hand, hold it in place, and tighten the bolts down with my other hand. Can you see it coming? -- It is very handy!!!!! -- I know - a very bad pun.

I will take a few more pictures of key parts and post them to this page along with additional description of how it was built and dimensions.